Experienced software modular user planning the jump to hardware. Need feedback.

For years, I've spent a lot of time with Softube Modular, VCV Rack, Voltage Modular, and AAS Multiphonics CV-1. I love them, but I really want to put my hands on real cables and knobs. I think it’s finally time to make the jump. I’ve been researching and thinking about this carefully for months and I’m starting to arrive at a plan I feel really good about. But I don’t have any experience with hardware, so I need feedback and a reality check before I start spending money.

Here’s my latest plan:

More context:

• I am planning to get the Intellijel 7U 104HP preformance case. Do I need to be concerned about power usage of modules with this case?

• I am all about sequencing. I want the option for MIDI input to play along or sync to an external clock, but I’ll often do everything inside the rack with internal clocks and gate / CV sequencers. I want my sequencers to be straightforward, hands-on, and inherently modular, so I can mess around with independent clock rates and resets and boolean gate logic and wiring things together in wacky ways while twisting knobs that always show me their value so I don't get lost. I also like creative limitations. I have a strong sense the Tiptop Z8000 will fit me well as my first CV sequencer, but I don’t know much about the brand.

• I love generative/evolving patches and controlled chaos.

• Several choices were made to support up to four voices. For example: bass, lead, and two percussion. Sometimes I’ll do mono synths and multi-layer drones. I want flexibility to approach things in many different ways. Hence the two quad VCAs and mixing options.

• It's been suggested I put the knobs that I think I’ll use the most on the bottom row for easier access, so I’ve tried to do that (I can only imagine what it will really be like though).

• I didn’t get any multiples. I am hoping it’s fine to split triggers once or twice with Tiptop stackcables. How many time can you split gates and triggers that way? What about CV? I know this might be an issue for pitch, but I’ll be using quantizers so I think it’s manageable.

• I do not want menu diving. I want this to be an instrument I play, completely unlike the feel of using a DAW or software. The Disting is a huge compromise in this regard, and I’m sure I’m going to get frustrated with it (I’ll print out the manual), but it’s clear there is no perfect rack and something is always going to be “missing”. I feel like the Disting can help me figure out where to go next by trying out different module functions and figuring out what is really missing that I should invest in later (when I probably inevitably buy a second rack to put on top of this one).

I have a ton of other thoughts and lots of questions but this post is getting too long so I’ll stop here. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

EDITED Mar 24th 2022, 06:42

If you already plan to fill this case, take a bigger one.
Obviously you won't like the Disting, so i'm not sure you need to try (I did and just lost my time).
Mutable Stages would fit nice.
This selection looks pretty solid so just start and you will see.

I hear what you're saying. It is pretty clear I will outgrow this case. I'm going to ease into this and buy a subset of the modules, spend some time with those, and re-evaluate. Maybe I'll completely change my plan or decide I don't even want to proceed (I doubt it though).

I wanted to have a solid plan for fitting everything I needed into that case. It was going to be "the rack". I think this was partially to establish a maximum budget on this because it is pretty darn expensive, but it's leading to bad compromises like buying a module I probably won't like to "fill in the gaps". The fact is I'll be spreading my purchases out over time and at some point I will have the budget for more if I want them.

I think I may stick with this case though. Maybe it's stupid but for some reason I like the 1U form factor, and this case seems relative easy to transport, which is a factor for me. You can actually join two of this model of case together, so my plan is when I outgrow the first one I'll buy another (probably one horizontal and one vertical which seems like a common approach?). If I'm seriously thinking about buying the Disting, it might mean it's time to get that second case!

PS - Yeah I had Stages in my virtual rack at one point. I think I will pick one up eventually. Thanks to Softube Modular and VCV Rack I am already a Mutable Instruments fanboy.

I don't know all the modules included here, except 7 that I own. So, on my part, some simple advice and opinions; other modularists who regularly intervene in these forums will be able to complete or help more knowledgeably (I have two or three names in mind ;)

The design of the whole seems to me well balanced. We can see a certain experience thanks to the path already taken with the virtual modular.

Concerning the power supply, no problem. It is generally advised not to exceed 70% to 80% of the available power. (Sometimes less, up to 50% if all the modules were working together in the same patch, and with all the lights on, etc. Which is quite rare).

The only important type of module that I don't see here is an active multiple (Buff Mult type): indispensable for pitch cvs or other signals requiring high precision.

The Disting Mk4 should be kept, it will always be useful even in a larger configuration. And for example in this setup: if you need a delay or a Bit crusher. It's a little 'comfort' module that is good to have in reserve. That's what made it so successful.

A controller, or a manual trigger, could also be recommended. This is the interest of the physical modular, beyond the tweaks, to be in direct contact with the physical dimension. See LS1lightstrip, Ears, TP8... while waiting for a Planar, or a Tetrapad for example.

My advice would also be not to buy everything at once. Restrict yourself, at first, to the ones you are sure to want absolutely.

First of all, to be able to take the time to read the manuals well. This allows you to concentrate on mastering them (for example Marbles, a wonderful module, very powerful; or even just Rings which is user-friendly but has a lot of resources). I'm talking less about 'knowledge' than about 'mastery'.

You have to get used to the physical approach of the modules, a dimension naturally absent from their software version. And gradually, things will seem less abstract to you. In the real world, it is easier to see what you really want.

It can also be useful to notice the differences between the various manufacturing qualities, depending on the modules or the manufacturers.

So, your theoretical approach seems to me to be globally good, which is quite rare at the beginning. Your experience as a 'software modular user' has been beneficial. Your only small deficiencies are currently linked to this non-experience of the physical dimension of modular: which is logical today :)

My suggestion would be to go with a case with more panel room AND which plays nicely in live situations. I suggest Case From Lake, actually (https://www.casefromlake.com/), as they have great prices on fold-up portable cabs AND they can do custom row additions, including tiles in both the Pulplogic and Intellijel formats. They even let you spec the power supply...either Meanwell or Doepfer. With one of those (and they can go up to 168 hp in a portable cab...see the website), you can have ample space, ample power, however many tiles you need, AND still make the build portable.

Thanks for the thoughtful reply @Sweelinck

The only important type of module that I don't see here is an active multiple (Buff Mult type): indispensable for pitch cvs or other signals requiring high precision.

The Disting Mk4 should be kept, it will always be useful even in a larger configuration. And for example in this setup: if you need a delay or a Bit crusher. It's a little 'comfort' module that is good to have in reserve. That's what made it so successful.

I keep thinking I will want a dedicated buffered multiple so I will plan to get one at some point. I could easily swap it with the 2HP S&H, because there is already a S&H and the Disting could be another S&H as needed.

I know I will want more utility modules and delays but I need to spend time with the actual hardware and really learning how to use it, to see what makes sense for me. The Disting could be very helpful to experiment. If I am always using the Disting for a certain purpose, I would eventually buy a dedicated module for it and then try using the Disting for something else to see where to go next. I feel like this will be a good strategy for slowly expanding my rack (and eventually into another/bigger case) without wasting money on "unnecessary" modules. Even if the Disting is not my favorite due to usability challenges, I think it will still offer a lot of value.

A controller, or a manual trigger, could also be recommended. This is the interest of the physical modular, beyond the tweaks, to be in direct contact with the physical dimension. See LS1lightstrip, Ears, TP8... while waiting for a Planar, or a Tetrapad for example.

Hmm, I'm glad you brought this up. I realized I want to trigger things like the sequencer resets without needing to hook up a MIDI controller.

I have a question about this. I have found there are often many ways to accomplish a task in modular. To reset sequencers, I could of course use a slow clock division to reset and re-sync everything periodically, but I will also want to do it manually. This module can be worked into my plan and seems perfect for this need, plus I get pressure sensitive CV control too: https://www.modulargrid.net/e/intellijel-fsr-1u

However, if I don't buy a dedicated controller/manual trigger right now, I believe in theory I could use an attenuverter to trigger the resets and other trigger inputs. The attenuverters are normalized to DC, meaning I can plug in the output and control the voltage directly with the knob. My questions is: if I were to plug an attenuverter into the sequencer resets, can I turn it from low to high to trigger them? My intuition is trigger inputs are triggered by the voltage going from below some threshold to above the threshold (maybe with hysteresis to prevent double triggers), so I don't need a dedicated trigger signal necessarily, I just need something I can make go from low to high voltage.

Do I have the right idea, or in practice is it better to use a dedicated trigger signal (a short pulse) to avoid strange behavior?

My advice would also be not to buy everything at once. Restrict yourself, at first, to the ones you are sure to want absolutely.

Good advice. I feel comfortable with my current plan, and I am open to the plan changing once I get started. So my next step is to figure out where to start. Every time I try to refine my plan, certain modules are included, so clearly they are a good place to start.

The main thing at this point is to decide what cables to buy and I have no idea yet. This is part of what I could never experience in software and I have no point of reference. I am thinking I should get a few "standard" cables (that stick straight out) of various lengths. It has been recommended I get cables with different shapes, I guess you would call it an "L" connection, like these: https://tendrilscables.com/ And I know I want some stackable cables. I guess I will get a mix of maybe 30-40(?) different kinds of cables and see how it goes, unless someone has some advice here?

they have great prices on fold-up portable cabs AND they can do custom row additions, including tiles in both the Pulplogic and Intellijel formats ... With one of those (and they can go up to 168 hp in a portable cab...see the website), you can have ample space, ample power, however many tiles you need, AND still make the build portable.
-- Lugia

Thanks @Lugia! I will take a look.

If you really need a manual reset trig, you should use an appropriate module (the FSR 1U seems to be convenient). Other methods would be less suitable and could bring you latency.

Concerning the cables, different colors will help you to visualize your patch more easily. And several lengths can be adapted to the in/out distances. However, the longer cables allow you to free up space to access the modules. Personally I prefer this solution and have mainly 100cm cables (Black Market in various colors).

The right angle patch cables can also free up space at the top: this is useful for the passage of hands to the knobs; they are also handy for the live performance cases, those with two boxes that close on top of each other.

Stackables seem a good solution 'a priori'... but they add obstacles for the passage of hands because they stack up high (and they are expensive). 1-in/5-out splitter hubs or 2-out splitters are more practical (and cheaper).
https://www.sweetwater.com/black-market-monomult/series
https://polarnoise.com/product/eurorack-patch-cables-splitter/

You can start with a mix and then expand your cable set. So, again, same advice here: go slowly.
Modular is like wine, an art of living, it must be tasted and enjoyed in small sips :))

Thanks @Sweelinck, that's very helpful info.

My questions is: if I were to plug an attenuverter into the sequencer resets, can I turn it from low to high to trigger them? My intuition is trigger inputs are triggered by the voltage going from below some threshold to above the threshold (maybe with hysteresis to prevent double triggers), so I don't need a dedicated trigger signal necessarily, I just need something I can make go from low to high voltage.

Do I have the right idea, or in practice is it better to use a dedicated trigger signal (a short pulse) to avoid strange behavior?

adamj

Yes, this would work. But there is a much simpler way: simply patch a cable into the reset input and press the tip of the other end with your thumb ;)

That’s a handy hack !

Ah, cool. I will remember that trick @segu.