My very first rack

Hi,
After seeing lots of videos about modular systems, I'm planning my first

I'm using a beatstep pro as controller.
The choice for a 62hp from intellijel, is because I'm planning multiple little cases as one big case. Next case it would be for drums.

What do you think.¿
Some advice would be appropriate.
Thanks

EDITED Aug 13th 2022, 09:37

Hi,
After seeing lots of videos about modular systems, I'm planning my first

I'm using a beatstep pro as controller.
The choice for a 62hp from intellijel, is because I'm planning multiple little cases as one big case. Next case it would be for drums.

What do you think.¿
-- supernatur

Well, I can't see what you're doing, but I can guarantee you that what you're planning will be expensive and rather pointless. Cases are some of the biggest expense in Eurorack, especially since they come in as an "up-front" cost when you're starting a build. But hey, let's do some math...

So, right now you're talking at least TWO Palette 62s. These go for $299 a pop, so $598 gets you 124 hp of space, plus 62 hp for Intellijel-format tiles...we'll call those 31 hp, as most tiles are sort of "half a module". 93 + 93 = 186 hp, with me being charitable. But as far as JUST the 3U modules, you've only got 124 hp.

Now, around here the Tiptop Mantis is generally considered the best all-around starter case. And they give you 104 x 2 hp for a total of 208 hp...for around $350. Definitely FAR cheaper...and as for power and ergonomics, they're pretty damn good. Plus, if you need 64 hp for a certain module subset...in the Palettes, you're screwed. But in a Mantis, it's easy. Which brings up the next point: small cases are really more suited for "mission-specific" builds...like adding a modulation "sidecar" or some such. And while it IS possible to mash a modular into one, you're going to have to make a lot of compromises that will wind up giving you less while costing more.

The best rule of thumb for case sizes is to whittle down a module complement to your desired result...then double the case size that it calls for. Sounds stupid, but the fact is that there's a buttload of "in between" modules that are the "glue" that makes the rest of the build work, and they're the ones everyone forgets. So, when you remember that there ARE important uses for some attenuverters and the like, they're going to need space because you're going to need them.

Now, as for the drums...this is another rabbit-hole. Yes, you CAN get loads of drum modules. Yes, the BSP HAS trigger sequencing. But this doesn't mean that you MUST do that. Fact is, if you just go out and snag something like Uli's RD-8 or 9 (or 6, even), you could get TWO of those and still not come close to the cost of doing that in modular (and yes, even in a Palette 62!). Nor would the functionality come close in terms of sequencing and integrated functions in those drum machines. By all means, yes, do your master clocking in the modular (Pam's to the rescue!) but DON'T just throw a couple grand at an issue that can be solved for less than $500.

So, yeah...that's without even seeing the build itself. But then, with how you're planning to do that, just the details about the cases alone are sufficient to indicate an impending cash bonfire. And since money works better for buying things than using it for kindling, I strongly suggest a rethink here.

Welcome, supernatur!

Judging by the size/composition of your rack, I'm guessing you watched this Andrew Huang video.

I was going to try a small rack, too, but what I learned from the folks round here is that Eurorack is a slippery slope, meaning you don't simply stop buying modules. Thus, bigger case is generally better case.

Don't get me wrong, the video is a good video. But the car-size modular behind Andrew is a bit moar realistic than the plate-size one in front of him.

So, when and if you do start, you should probably start with a big(ger) rack, like a Mantis.

Hope this helps!

EDITED Aug 14th 2022, 02:24

plus 62 hp for Intellijel-format tiles...we'll call those 31 hp, as most tiles are sort of "half a module". 93 + 93 = 186 hp, with me being charitable. But as far as JUST the 3U modules, you've only got 124 hp.
-- Lugia

very charitable, I'd call them 1/3rd of a module - so 20ish hp

Thank’s for the advice, let’s go for the mantis.
At the start I wanted to creat a finished case, but yes your are right.
Let’s start with a bigger case, and grow slowly.

Some advice for some modules to start?

Thank’s for the advice, let’s go for the mantis.
At the start I wanted to creat a finished case, but yes your are right.
Let’s start with a bigger case, and grow slowly.

Some advice for some modules to start?

-- supernatur

a sound source, a sound modifier, a modulation source, a way to play, a way to listen... maybe a few utility modules to help join everything together nicely...

a sound source - plaits is a common recommendation - there may be some available - otherwise any basic analog vco will be fine - doepfer or the like

a sound modifier - a low pass filter is a good place to start... I particularly like the SEM - or possibly a delay or multi-fx if you get plaits (as it has a built in filter) - so maybe an fx aid (I'd go pro though for this tbh! - so you can see what program you are on easily)

a modulation source - personally I'd get a maths - and download the 'maths illustrated supplement' work through that and try to understand what it's doing, how it's doing it and why, but a lot of people find that overwhelming (complex is just lots of simple!!!) - otherwise something like batumi is good - 4 lfos at once, different waveforms etc etc

a way to play - a sequencer, a midi->cv module etc etc etc

if a sequencer - get the one you like the workflow of best - don't be afraid to get a multi-channel ne especially if you intend to expand to multiple voices in the future - as then you will only need to learn one sequencer and avoid another learning curve in the future - I like the Erica Black Sequencer, but this is very personal... do your research - you will get lots of recommendations ie everyone has a different favourite...

a way to listen - really depends on what else you have and whether you think you need stereo from day 1 - plaits is dual mono, SEM filter is mono, fx aid is stereo... I'd just get a decent quad cascading vca (veils if you can find one) and use that as a mono or stereo output... at least for now...

Some advice for some modules to start?

-- supernatur

OK...a basic rundown of the types of modules is useful here...

GENERATORS: oscillators and pretty much anything else that can make a noise
MODULATORS: sources of control signals which alter the behavior of other types
MODIFIERS: modules that alter signals from the above two types. Filters, effects, etc. And...
CONTROLLERS: the stuff you use to interface with the first three.

If you're missing one of these, you don't have a synthesizer. Also, it's worth noting that some modules do a few of these functions at the same time, such as what you get with performance mixers which fit into both modifiers AND controllers. It's important to keep an eye out for these, as you can get more function into a build by using these "Swiss Army Knife" modules. Case in point is one of my fave small rig VCOs: Klavis' Twin Waves mkii. That module not only has two oscillators, but the control inputs are quantized, so you've got both "generators" and "modifiers" there. At the same time, DON'T get modules that either induce eyestrain and/or require tweezers to safely tweak settings. Those are no fun whatsoever, so make sure your build's ergonomics are in a zone you feel comfortable with. Basically, you need to ask "will I feel comfortable using this in five years?" as sort of a sorting guideline.

Second, before diving further into the $$$ zone with hardware, start your inquiries in SOFTWARE. And when you say "software" and "modular synth", you may as well just go ahead and say "VCV Rack". It's probably one of the best ways to sort out what YOU want modular to do, because VCV is a very good replication of the Eurorack environment...some modules are even software versions of the hardware ones you'll find here. And the big selling-point here is that...it's NOT for "sale", it's FREE. https://vcvrack.com/ It's a much better way to learn while doing, because doing so with hardware involves a good chunk of cash. The sole caveat about VCV Rack is that it does tend to be something of a "resource hog", so in my case, I've actually gone with a wholly separate machine for it to chew on. Not a bad idea, really, especially since some tiny machines (mine's a Lenovo ThinkCentre, Gen9 i7-8700 6-core, 32 gb RAM) are both beefy AND cheap, which makes them VERY useful for that purpose.

And third: when you go with hardware, do not neglect utility modules! I can't stress that enough; a module with a couple of attenuverters might seem boring, but when you need to invert a signal, you'll be very glad that those attenuverters are there...boring or not! Jim and I are in 100% agreement here...ALWAYS make sure you've got utility modules that expand the capabilities or, in some cases such as VCAs, are 100% essential. And this is also part of the reasoning behind starting with a bigger cab, because those "sexy" modules require signals that make them do what they do, and you'll need space for those. F'rinstance, take something like Intellijel's Morgasmatron, which is a complex dual state-variable filter. So, filters usually require envelopes...so you're also talking about a pair of envelope generators there. Then you'll probably want a pair of VCAs on the outputs. And with LFOs to provide tremolo/vibrato, you wind up talking about maybe a total of 30-40 hp for that Morgasmatron and not simply the 20 hp module itself. That sort of thing. I'd suggest looking at some of the "classics", such as the venerable ARP 2600 (probably the best teaching synth ever) to see how their designers implemented these things to create synths that are still on sale 50 years later. And speaking of 2600s...

DO take advantage of some of the prebuilds out there. Uli's 2600 clone (which actually has ALL of the ARP 2600's v.3 and on functionality as it retains the 3620 submodules, while Korg's "M" reissue is missing that) only runs about $700...and as a longtime ARP 2600 user myself, I can safely say that Behringer won the "version 5" competition, while Korg's stumbled here. But ARP 2600s (irrespective of WHO made them as long as they're functionally complete) might just be one of the best "core synths" for a larger modular setup, and something I can recommend equally for any and everyone...especially starting in modular, because it's easy to use and make sense of, and you can patch loads of other devices into/out of/through it since it uses the Eurorack standard of 1 V/8va and positive gate/triggers. I would call that $700 cost a bargain!