Checking voltage range

Some modules want -5V to +5V, others produce 0 to +10V, then there's modulation modifying the voltages, and after a while I'm completely lost what I actually have for a signal. In many cases, I can cope by just listening to the result. But in some situations, I’d like to know it a bit more precisely. So my question is: how do you check the voltage range of a signal? Do you do that at all? If yes, with a specific module, or a multi-purpose one like the Mordax Data?

I've never bothered checking the voltage of a signal & don't really have a way of doing it other than a multimeter

I usually attenuate modulation anyway & what's the worst that can happen in eurorack? probably that the signal will clip... & as it's not audio...

I'm mostly in camp "by ear" too for signal levels too, as Jim says the worst that happens is that something clips off a bit of the signal. Definitely occasionally throw envelope signals into Mordax to get a look at what they're doing though!

IMHO though, other than tuning you really shouldn't chase all that much precision in signal levels! Let it be a little sloppy, it might do something cool!

Yeah for me a scope like the the O'Tool+ or Mordax Data is essential. Yes you should use your ears, but viewing things in the scope can save you a lot of headaches as far as diagnosing problems when things aren't behaving like you expect. I'm a visual person anyway so I like to be able to see things in the scope regardless.

EDITED Sep 24th 2022, 15:42

Yeah for me a scope like the the O'Tool+ or Mordax Data is essential. Yes you should use your ears, but viewing things in the scope can save you a lot of headaches as far as diagnosing problems when things aren't behaving like you expect. I'm a visual person anyway so I like to be able to see things in the scope regardless.
-- adaris

I'm visual too, so I can relate. But also for simpler matters. I have the Zadar, which outputs 0-10V (attenuatable). Suppose I get that down to 0-3V. Now if I invert that, I get -3-0V. Say I want it to be 0-3V. With many DC sources, it's hard to say if I'm really getting 3V. I was using that to AND the inverse of envelope of a sound with gates, in other words to stop gates from triggering while the sound is still playing. By ear, it's probably good enough. Visually, I feel it's more accurate. Now the question is - do I want to spend €500 on a Mordax for that?

I'm visual too, so I can relate. But also for simpler matters. I have the Zadar, which outputs 0-10V (attenuatable). Suppose I get that down to 0-3V. Now if I invert that, I get -3-0V. Say I want it to be 0-3V. With many DC sources, it's hard to say if I'm really getting 3V. I was using that to AND the inverse of envelope of a sound with gates, in other words to stop gates from triggering while the sound is still playing. By ear, it's probably good enough. Visually, I feel it's more accurate. Now the question is - do I want to spend €500 on a Mordax for that?
-- Arrandan

Well I would just say that 1) there are cheaper scope options out there than the Mordax, which has 4 channels and does more than just act as an oscilloscope. Plum Audio, FPB, and Intellijel have cheaper scopes, and there may be others I'm missing as well. And 2) If your experience is like mine you're likely to run into other situations where you'll be glad you had a scope. I actually have more than one and I don't regret it at all.

EDITED Sep 25th 2022, 00:02