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I totally get you--I think I actually went through this a little last year with guitar pedals. Just gotta take it slow.

Yeah good point, but if you live after one year under the bridge because you can't pay the rental anymore... and that just all because of modular... ;-) But other than that, modular is fine, nothing to worry about, he, he.

Hi Apache-Raver,

For the fact that you call this "just noodling", I like it a lot :-)

Nice piece and kind regards, Garfield.
-- GarfieldModular
Thanks Garfield, I have only been doing this modular stuff for about two years now, still loads to learn

Who says I have either now? Haha.

Fair enough, let's talk in a year time again and let me know if you still have a car and a house ;-)

Hi Apache-Raver,

For the fact that you call this "just noodling", I like it a lot :-)

Nice piece and kind regards, Garfield.

Haha, I'm taking literally everybody's suggestion and am starting small, taking it slow and easy. But who knows? ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Hi Notbasho,

He, he, yeah that's what you are saying now. Once you sold your car and start thinking of selling your house for your modular stuff then please repeat again your above statement ;-)

Other than that modular is fantastic :-D Cheers, Garfield.

Thanks for the info! Glad to be here!

Hi Apache-Raver,

Thanks for the hint. He, he, I am not too familiar with "modern English", so I don't know what's PHAT but I guess you mean it's an fantastic nice module to use, right? :-)

Bollocks... hmm, I always thought if something is bollocks, it sucks or it's not worth it but I guess you mean the opposite of that ;-)

I do apologise for my poor English.

Steffcorp, I am afraid my usual dealers don't carry this brand, so I wouldn't be able to test it at my dealer. Buying it "blind", not sure about it. Thank you very much anyway, I will keep this VCO in mind.

Kind regards, Garfield Modular.

Hi Notbasho,

Well... you still have to get yourself a few patch cables but that should be it ;-)

Welcome to modular and kind regards, Garfield Modular.

ya

Hi Jazzy,

I am in a kind of similar situation as you are. I recently also had to travel quite a bit for work and worried like hell about my just all bought modular stuff. I was thinking about an Intellijel 7U case (with the option to extend with yet another same case that can be connected with some metal connection plates, optional available/purchasable). But just at the moment I actually almost bought the Intellijel 7U case, for my situation I decided against it...

I bought instead an Elektron A4 (Analogue Four), it's nice small and handy and fits in my hand luggage. So I don't have to worry which modules I put into a casing that most likely is going to be too small soon enough anyway. So opted for the A4 when I am abroad and I play with my modular whenever I am at home. Might be not what you wanted to hear but I had too much "headache" regarding deciding which case would be good and big enough but is still comfortable to travel with, etcetera. I admit it might not be everybody's choice of "solving this", but for me this worked out great.

Your Digitakt, if I remember well, is even a bit smaller than the A4, so there should be even more space left in your suitcase!

Good luck with the projects abroad and kind regards, Garfield Modular.

Hi Colo98,

Most of it JimHowell1970 answered you already, just about the audio output: Please keep in mind that Eurorack level voltage is higher than the usual audio level. So either be damn careful or if you don't won't too worry too much get yourself a proper audio input (if you need that) and output module aka audio interface module.

You also can sleep better at night because of possible DC signal on your output will be filtered away if you use a proper audio interface module; though your mixer might take care of that too, but as I said, I sleep much better at night knowing I don't need to worry about all that because I am using an audio interface module. Up to you of course but you can't say you haven't been warned :-)

Good luck with everything and welcome into modular! Kind regards, Garfield.

Hi JimHowell1970,

Hmm, could be yes, but why two prices? One for brand new and one for second hand modules? :-)

Kind regards, Garfield.

These leds just indicate that there is power on -12, +12 and 5v rails. I would be more annoyed if they weren't on...

EDITED Jan 15th 2020, 21:49

I finally got two of the new chromatic range, Nostalgia (The delay module) and Ataxia (dual modulation module), I have made a quick video demo, nothing profound, justa bit of noodling.

Related to this topic, I'm wondering if anyone knows what the red LEDs mean on the Rackbrute bus board. I noticed that in one of my blank slots there were (maybe) 3 LEDs lit up. I turned it off and emailed Arturia after reading the manual because there's nothing in there about these lights. I'd love to know if those are a warning or somehow indicate when I've skipped a power port on a row. Thanks!

yo

Hi,

I received the news at work that I have to work abroad for a while.
So I want to make a travel friendly setup (digitakt + modular) to carry around the world and
this setup can be an addition on my main setup at home.

I choose to use all modules which I don't use in my additive/subtractif workflow.(don't flame me for my grammar)

My intension is to make a very playable synth focussed on the BIA voice. Where tweeking knobs and plenty modulation is
central. This setup is not genre specific.

Any advice is welcome!

Regards

Jazzy

The ribbon is inverted in the manual (holes are facing the reader) but if you look at the connector groove it's clear that the brown cable goes to the right where is the -12V / red stripe polarity marking.

Hey, new to modular and don't want to install my new Endorphin 6hp units wrong but the manual is confusing: http://endorphin.es/assets/es_milky_way_200106.pdf

It shows the red/brown as -12v on the left but the -12v bus board connection on the right. Is this just a bad illustration or am I reading it wrong?

Thanks.

Really cool. Nice work dude

GENIUS.

I tune mine in my computer, the audio is going thru my UAD card anyway, so I just use a plug in tuner. I do find it easier to tune an oscillator using it's sine wave.

Steffcorp ARP2600 clone oscillators, they are a bit pricey compared to the doepfers, but they are the bollocks. I have two in my rack, and they're extremely PHAT.

Oh, they're sold with the module? That's actually really helpful to know, thank you! I wasn't sure if that'd be the case—oftentimes if you buy a guitar pedal it's just the pedal, no supply or cables or anything, so I kind of figured it'd be the same thing for Eurorack. Thanks again!

All connectors on eurorack distribution boards including the rackbrute are 16 pins. On modules side I have seen 10 and 16 pins connectors. Modules are sold with the proper cable.

EDITED Jan 14th 2020, 21:33

Didn't know about pitch follower! It seems super cool considering that I would like to integrate the sound of my piano with a voice or two in my rack, so I'll add a disting for sure. Sampler is something that I'm considering for the future, I really like morphagene and 4ms DLD that can also loop.
Regarding the mic I thought that maybe I could use a mic connected to the mixer and send the piano signal from there to my modular through the FX send. The output from the modular would go in the FX return, so I would just need a little preamp in my case. I don't know if I explained myself well, do you see any problem in my idea that I'm too noob to see?
Anyway, thank you for your reply and your hints!

I'm just getting into Eurorack (and hardware modular in general), and I'm planning on purchasing an Arturia BruteRack 6U to work in conjunction with my Minibrute 2S. I'm a little confused though when it comes to power supply requirements: is there a specific pin-number ribbon cable I need for the 6U? Or is it more determined by the module? And where would I find out which ribbon cable I need? I keep looking on the info pages for individual modules, but can't really translate what it means for this.

Thanks for your time!

I would buy the case, Maths, Disting, Veils, one of the vcos (BIA or Plaits) and one of the effects units and start with that - I'd also add MI Links and Kinks (as a superb utility starter set - you need more utilities) - and learn those modules well (including a few from Disting)
that may leave you with some cash in your pocket for future purchases once you actually have played with a modular, and then go slow - it's not a race - when you are ready for another module - add one or 2 modules at a time*, learn how to integrate them with your existing modules and repeat

*some modules benefit from extra utilities to get the most out of them - clouds needs attenuators, for instance, so sometimes a couple of modules are a better purchase than just one

104hp is not a must - it may work out better value ($/hp) and stave off buying another case by a few months in the future, though

Personally I always recommend 6u 104hp as a good starter size

This will also allow you to buy an actual MI Rings - so the person who created it actually gets paid!

And I would go for an MI Marbles over a Turing Machine

Otherwise, just get your minimum viable synth (4 or 5 modules) and then go slowly, ignoring what you think you want now, for what you actually need once you've started patching - more utilities probably

Now you have an SD card - check out favourites - this allows you to group some algorithms together so that you can switch between them easily - and it makes it more likely that you will learn these, so not be so frustrated at having to use a manual / look up table most of the time

The menu is not particularly difficult to navigate, nor is it particularly complex, it's just big and lots of simple - too much to hold in your head at once - so don't try

Just remember that input 1 modulates the same param as the knob, input 2 is the main input other than that unless it's stereo input algo 3 is cv and that the bottom 2 are outputs and concentrate on your favourites, you'll remember them in a couple of weeks and then only need the manual if you need something out of the ordinary - Buchla conversion for example

Price in euros?

I agree with garfield get a bigger case - 6u / 104hp is a great starter size (and mantis is one of the best $/hp in eurorack)

I think I'd want a better mic input - Little Mikey is the only one I know of - but it will be a better bet than microphonie - at least you get the choice as to how bad it is depending on mic, placement etc as opposed to being forced down a particular route - plus phantom power should you need it

Another option would be Ears - which is an updated microphonie - which adds an envelope follower, which is quite useful
or a doepfer A119, this will take a dynamic mic, and it probably will distort, but it does have an envelope follower and a gate extractor

If I went for Little Mikey, I'd want to add an envelope follower (disting has one and a pitch follower)

Your output from clouds for example to a mixer will definitely work

With an original clouds (and a lot of clones) you will want attenuators for cv inputs

If it was me trying to do this I would go for the Little Mikey, Disting mk4 (envelope follower), Maths (or Rampage, I prefer Maths - google illustrated manual), MI Kinks and possibly a used Phonogene or a supercell, and add a filter - ripples is nice - I'd also want to look at sampler modules and how to trigger them whilst playing the piano - create a loop, process it and then re route the piano in so that you can process that differently (in the future perhaps)

And leave the rest of the case empty - it will fill up at some point in the future, probably just before it's time to buy another one!!!

ie get a few things that will allow you to do what you want to do - process your piano - and then slowly and organically grow from there, instead of planning all sorts of stuff

Yes Maths and veils first is a good start - then seriously take a look at links and kinks as the next 2 modules!
Veils will work perfectly for that application and for that matter the opposite (getting non-modular up to modular levels, as it has up to +20db gain)
It is unlikely that you will fry anything - most modules have input limiters which will clip the signal, to the range they specify, but will not fry at full modular levels, this generally applies to almost anything that you can stick a signal into - mixers and audio interfaces - you don't want that for these
But isn't that half the attraction of modular, that you can have a selection of whatever and mix and match?
Plaits has an lpg emulation, so the filter and vca are tied, you may not want this and want to just filter instead of use a vca, or the opposite, or have more control on the relationship between the filter and the vca (swap which is first, use different envelopes for the vca and the filter, etc)

not happy with @killian95
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/users/view/123606
the package never arrived and the tracking said the parcel returned to sender.
despite several attempts the french post never replied or he never filed a claim or didnt check for the parcel or i dont know - because HE ISNT REPLYING ANYMORE. his name is Killian Vaissade.

Vermona had something like that on display as a prototype at Superbooth last year IIRC. Hasn't turned up yet, though. You might want to try asking them about it.

Thank you!

I see the point about modulation: the more I have played, the more I miss some utilities indeed; having an envelope generator with a delay would would help, for example. So, MATHS and Veils first.
I've seen people using a VCA to reduce the signal level and connect it to a line input of a regular (non-modular) mixer or sound interface, do you know if I can do that with Veils? Not looking for a high quality sound in that case, but I'd rather not fry anything.

Regarding filters: minibrute already has one, so do I understand correctly that you'd plug Plaits into a filter? From what I see Plaits already has a low-pass filter built-in (although without direct CV input), so wouldn't that be a waste?

Hi Garfield, thanks for your reply!
For my piano input I thought I could use a contact mic and feed it through mikrophonie. I know it won't be super high quality but I don't mind it to sound lo-fi.
Regarding audio output I thought I could use an external mixer like a little Behringer one to have both headphones and L/R out, my idea would be to go out from clouds or from A-138b into the mixer, I've read that it can be done and that I don't need to attenuate the signal before feeding it into the external mixer.
Do you think that my idea for managing I/O is doable?

Hi Colo98,

Interesting idea of processing your acoustic piano but ehm... are you sure that modular will be the right solution? If yes, keep reading ;-)

As you indicated yourself, modular with just 84 HP is asking for trouble (space-wise). Go straight for 3 * 84 HP or 2 * 104 then at least you don't need straight away to buy yet another case.

I had a look at your rack but I can't find your audio (i.e. piano) input. Into which audio interface module does that go? I think you might have forgotten an audio input/output module? If you don't need a headphones output then Intellijel Audio Input/Output is a nice one.

Please carefully plan this rack since the limited space you have it will be very difficult to choose the correct modules for your need. On the other hand, once you got your rack, enjoy it :-)

Kind regards, Garfield Modular.

Exactly I got the same doubt if the user rating really works got the same
Bought a broken module and the person who sold me give me dump down to me Hahahah

I don’t think it’s good system maybe better a written feedback like discogs it’s better

I traded a module with him and it went OK, however he left a bad rating without ever telling me why which makes me doubt how great the new user rating is. I asked him why he rated like that earlier today, no response. I checked my old tracking, he must have gotten the module fine, weeks ago.

User men_chine is a crook!

This is a warning to alert fellow wigglers about this person.
I paid for a module last month (PP f/f) and then he/she/it disappeared. men_chine is still active on Modulargrid, updates rack layouts etc and the ad is still up for that same module.

-- vytis

-- doomglue

Hi Gcanta,

What does 4715 e and 3150 e mean?

Kind regards, Garfield Modular.

Edit: Remove typo

EDITED Jan 13th 2020, 01:31

Hi,
I'm planning my first rack, can you give me any advice or tell me if I'm missing something that I should consider? I would like to go in the direction of ambient/generative and also I would like to process the sound of my acoustic piano (that's why there's a mikrophonie). I know 84hp are a lot limited for what I want to do and I will probably expand in the future, but I want this to be my first goal into the modular world.
I'm unsure of having pico logic and also maybe I should consider changing something and adding a clock dedicated module, but I don't know if it's necessary since I could use rampage or tromso as a clock. Also I'm unsure if the DVCA is enough VCAs. What do you think about my choices for this little system?

Thank you in advance for any advice.

EDITED Jan 12th 2020, 21:33

I think the youtube videos linked in the manual are very good help.

The d0 delay module seem to do this.
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/mungo-enterprises-d0

I use a Batumi which has quad and phase mode.

EDITED Jan 12th 2020, 18:51

4715 e
3150 e

EDITED Jan 12th 2020, 12:02

Perhaps a bit different than what you are envisioning, but Ornament and Crime has a program that will generate 4 lfo’s with defined phasing. I think its called Quadraturia.

Also, a hearty thumbs up for Octasource.

Bought a uo_c built and sold by @usefulnoise. Arrived packed safe and sound, solid build, and no issues upon testing. Very happy, would buy again!