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Do you have these on hand already, or is this still speculative? The reason I ask is because the key to getting something more playable is going to be starting with a bigger case, something like a Tiptop Mantis. And this isn't simply because of the usual routine of "go bigger, then shrink your build", but because it sounds like you need more interactivity in the controls, and trying to do that with tight spacings and tiny controls won't be any fun.

If this is designed to complement the yangqin as something of a "sidecar", you should make the modular as playable as the yangqin is in the rig. The idea here is that the modular is supposed to function as part of that instrument, so you really won't like having to go from a really obvious musical environment (the yangqin) to a confined and twiddly one. Rather, everything should simply "flow", as if this were all one instrument...because technically, IT IS.

Now, as for the pickups...this is another place you need to be careful. Piezos tend to have low outputs, so it might be a better idea to boost the signal level BEFORE it arrives at the synth. Mission Engineering has a volume pedal, the VM-PRO, which has an option for piezo inputs with the proper impedance level (very important! piezos typically like to connect to something high impedance) and boost for those pickups. Plus, this will give you a few new playing methods by default, such as manually reshaping the envelopes while playing, or striking a large number of strings and then gradually bringing up the level of the resulting tonal wash, all by having the volume pedal between the yangqin and the synth's input. Plus, with the VM-PRO, that Doepfer A-199 will be a lot happier with the incoming levels, as this won't require the major level boost that a typical piezo pickup does. This is sort of familiar turf, as I've started (again) using guitar (dual-neck lapsteel...in this case, a fine 1952 National Dual-8) in a few things, and this seems to work better into a synth if the levels are already up near line-level at the synth's input module.

Effects are delivered by my Soundcraft mtk mixer. How balanced does it look? Modulation is kinda' missing in here...Do you think Atlantis fits this module selection? Should I consider another rack, just for the Atlantis?

I came across the Pico System III Eurorack version and it seemed like it could be a great first module for a Eurorack system, however after searching around (including in this forum) I found very little evidence of ANYONE using this in a Eurorack.
-- hurphendale

There are reasons for this. First reason is that the Pico III isn't a "module". It's a full synth. It has modular architecture but it's not a true module, so it's a wee bit off-topic for MG. Also, most savvy users here don't wind up cab-mounting their Pico III or other cased-but-rackables because, well, it's a waste of money and space to rehouse and repower something that already has those things from the factory.

And the third reason only becomes a problem if you have fat, sausage-y fingers; when you space a pile of 3 hp modules all together as one like that, tweaking the controls is a BITCH...and things such as VCF cutoffs and the like BEG to be tweaked. 2 hp and 3 hp (and some denser 4 hp) modules are great for hole-filling, but they're best left to things that don't require constant attention, such as VCAs, etc.

I'm with Jim above on this...but to add one other salient point: unless you know how something like a modular (or anything else!) will fit into your workflow, and how it can enhance your music, you might want to go with a prepatched rig, or some of the more interesting tandemmed prebuilds that are starting to appear. More expensive, sure...but if I were about to dive into this, I'd rather spend a bit more money for something of a more complete system...something like a Make Noise 0-CTRL/0-Coast pair, Pittsburgh's Voltage Research Lab, a Kilpatrick Phenol, Soundmachines Modulor114, etc. Even one of Korg's new ARP 2600 FS would be optimal here (save for the fact that they're quite unobtainable, something which Korg deserves LOADS of flung poo over, still!) The Pico III is OK for what it has, but more $$$ does tend to equal a more comprehensive synth in most cases. But first, determine where this would fit in what you create. Otherwise, this can be a hella expensive Pandora's box to open!

A four oscillator drone with: Rossum-Electro Trident, XAOC Odessa, Make Noise DPO, and a Moog Mother 32 through QPAS, Panharmonium, Clouds, and Mimeophon. Just a relaxed evening session, letting this patch unfold and evolve slowly.

What I find interesting is that the "problems" which the digital FOH/monitor desks mainly solve are generally related to transport. Digital desks are lighter, smaller, somewhat less fragile, and so on, so it's not a question of audio quality. And since a studio desk isn't likely to be dragged around all over the place, all of that becomes moot. My FIVE was something like $85k new, and that was only around 20-ish years ago, but I got it for $750...which might seem REALLY cheap, but then you need to factor in the need for a rental truck to get it home, gas, time on that, plus some movers to get it out and into your studio because this mo'fo is about 7 1/2 feet long and weighs in at 400 or so pounds. All totalled, that came to about $1200...but that's still FAR under the original list price.

But the search that got me to my FIVE was pretty mindblowing! If I'd felt like it, I could've gotten a 32-frame Mitsubishi/Quad Eight Westar desk for a smidge under $10k...again, that's an insane price, but those are far more difficult to maintain. Or a huge Harrison system that a TV station down in St. Louis was dumping for $9000 that I KNOW ran about $100k when new. The trick is to find something that configures nicely in a studio situation, that's relatively smashproof, easy to maintain, and that has killer audio quality for a good price, and not all desks out there fit that bill...so you have to be careful to make sure the desk in question "likes" being used in the studio. While the FIVE is great for this, not every mixing console out there is suitable for studio work, so that aspect requires some care to make sure the desk's configuration fits well.

Hi Wishbonebrewery,

Oh yes! I am enjoying this track too, I keep repeat listening at this track :-)

You got a lot of nice sounds in this track, well variation of sound usage and you keep the listener here at the tip of the chair, so exciting to listen at it, well done!

That casing... is that an ADDAC casing? Looks pretty nice! Let me know the details if you don't mind.

Thanks a lot for sharing and kind regards, Garfield.

I view the PICO III as a really well thought out instrument having everything you need, not just to get started, but as a full system. On the other hand I think the most active users of modular forums are more interested in making a highly personal instrument of all their favorite sounds, modulation and effects.

Both approaches are valid.

If you want to get started right away making bleeps, bloops and music the PICO III system (or any other full system or semi-modular) will get you there. If you're more interested in the finicky details of Maths VS Rampage VS Falisri VS Contour VS (insert dozens of others here), then explore by buying a module or two at a time and figuring out how they work together. Then adding or selling off modules as you go.

What are you hoping to do music-wise? Do you have any other gear?

the usual way to get into eurorack is to spend a fuckload of time researching (months if not years) - so that you actually know what modules are before even looking at the pretty pictures - or you could just get a semi

whilst the pico system seems to be a reasonably well specc'ed system - there are drawbacks - the main one being that the individual modules (yes I know there's only 1 panel in the system) are all very small - usually best sandwiched between 2 bigger modules so that there is space to get to the control and the jacks and in this case they are sandwiched between 2 modules the same size they are

I think the only market for this (either as a rack module or as a standalone desktop unit) is beginners - so your re-sale market is starters who particularly want to get trapped with these modules

personally I would do the research, save the pennies, try and actually play with a modular either at a store or through someone locally and then buy a case and a few modules that you actually want and have a decent idea about what they do - rather than rushing into buying a system that you can't see any users of

it may be that after having done the research then you still decide you want this 'module' - then at least you are not going into it blind - as you appear to be

EDITED Aug 9th 2020, 19:55

Thanks @troux and anyone else who did the same off the back of this thread!!!

@mog00 - it really depends on the individual - I like the make noise, erica synths, mutable (braided) cables and stackcables - I also have doepfer, arturia and tinrs - which I'm not so keen on (although the tinrs are really useful) - generally the important things are flexibility, reliability and the size of the plugs and cable - cables aren't expensive just buy a few different ones and try them out - try to aim for roughly 1/2 the number of jacks you have in the case - at some point you'll need less - but it's a good starting point

@Shakespeare - just updated the case - I was toying with the idea of MI Ripples to act as both a filter and vca? you think the quad VCA would be more beneficial?

Yeah, I agree with you on that. It's good advice. I started my search yesterday with a bit of help from a friend in the mixing/mastering business. The real challenge will be keeping him from buying everything before I get to it. :-)

Hola Cacharrada,

For example Rubadub seems to have Pam's in stock, if that's the question. ModularGrid lists a few sites to purchase modules but not all of them, so sometimes it's worth looking around some more ;-)

Now that I look a bit closely at the rack and Garfield's comments, I second his remark about an extra filter and reiterate the fact that what Pam's can offer in the realm of CV modulation sources is what I feel is missing from the proposed rack. LoL, now I almost feel like I'm selling the thing :-D

Saludos,
Diego

PS: foto de paella -> ahora tengo hambre :-)

I am new to modular, and looking for a good way to get started without knowing exactly what sets of modules I want to start with. I came across the Pico System III Eurorack version and it seemed like it could be a great first module for a Eurorack system, however after searching around (including in this forum) I found very little evidence of ANYONE using this in a Eurorack. I saw some cool demos of the desktop version, but no discussion of it within the Eurorack communities I checked.

Is this something I'd end up wanting to get rid of once I got familiar with Eurorack? It seems cool, but considering I haven't found any evidence of people using it in their Eurorack systems, I feel I would have a hard time selling a eurorack version of it.

Does anyone have any advice on this? Would I be better off getting the desktop version due to the resalability?

Really enjoying this patch, in no small part this is the product of the divided gates coming from the #PittsburghModular #MicroSequence, gates hitting the #ALM #PipSlope (Tweaking the PipSlope to let more of less thru) which is opening up #MutableInstruments #Veils to let through the #MakenoiseSTO and the #2hpARP pattern. The twinkly blippy beats come from the #AddacSystems #Tnetworks103 going through the #2HpVerb. Main beat is also the T-networks with hats percussion coming from the Roland TR-09. The PipSlope also tweaks the #HappyNerding #HNVCF. There is also some of the STO routed through the ADDAC105 and mixed with its output before heading to the #Erica #PicoDSP

And as usual, its time to pull all the plugs and delete the .wav files :)

Thanks @Farkas, now it seems that the issue is te gent one Pam's...

This will be fun, if you have tiny fingers. Otherwise, the micro-modules will get on your nerves at some point, particularly the Marbles clone (Marbles, unlike a lot of similar random-based sequencers, is really playable, and not at its best as a "set-and-forget" sequencer). Otherwise, the lack of VCAs is your only real issue.... you're going to want some. Maybe replace the input module with something like Ears, and use the free 4hp to add a VCA module (there are several dual VCA modules in 4hp available).

One reason I moved to larger, complex oscillators is due to their incredible depth and flexibility. I started out with STO, Dixie, and Plaits. I love each of these little oscillators but wouldn't trade all three for any one of my complex oscillators (Trident, DPO, Odessa, and Telharmonic). Sure, in a smaller case they are sometimes hard to justify, but stick Odessa in this one and it could easily create a powerful generative ambient landscape.

Just my 2 cents.

Hi Mowse,

I am sorry to hear you are facing problems with your mixer :-( I hope you find a solution :-) Buying a new one? ;-)

If wrapping up your EP-420 case is the consequence of this fantastic music, I would like to ask you to keep wrapping up your EP-420 every week or so :-)

It sounds so naturally, so easy going, the music you create, it's amazing and yes, keep on coming with "stuff" like this! Thank you very much for sharing this and kind regards, Garfield.

I think my poor little mixer is giving up the ghost. 10 years of service for a cheap, consumer grade slab isn't too bad, I suppose. :-)
-- mowse

Big suggestion: when you start looking for a replacement mixer, don't start with the new stuff. Instead, hit Reverb, eBay, etc and look for live pro audio desks from roughly 1990-2005. Since the whole concept of digital audio for live work shrunk down the desks, etc used for FOH work, there's a lot of primo stuff for dimes on the dollar out there (he said, leaning on the end bolster of the cherry 54-frame Soundcraft FIVE he got for $800). Seriously, tho...here's just one example of a nice, smaller live desk that would work nicely in a small studio, only $495 + shipping: https://reverb.com/item/34531059-soundcraft-lx7ii-24-channel-mixer?bk=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJqdGkiOiI0NDlhYWQ0OC1mMTFmLTQ1ZTMtYTg4OC1kNTRmNjRhYjIwODciLCJpYXQiOjE1OTY5MzA4MzMsInVzZXJfaWQiOiIiLCJzZXNzaW9uX2lkIjoiIiwiY29va2llX2lkIjoiNGY3NTU5NjItMzc5Mi00NDQzLTk5YWMtYjZhZDk1MjlhOGNmIiwicHJvZHVjdF9pZCI6IjM0NTMxMDU5Iiwic291cmNlIjoiTk9ORSJ9.QkOVR7Sla-YqtL5diOo6MlAvL863pzXa4T6BtfJw10E Nice stuff...back when this was new (which it still IS...see this Sweetwater listing: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LX7ii-24--soundcraft-lx7ii-24-channel-mixer) it wasn't too cheap at about $1500. And this is just one example amongst loads...

Nice @jimhowell1970, just gave you a follow!

Hey all, Im building out a nifty case with the intention of having a generative ambient setup which I could also plug the output of piezo mics into rings or clouds, etc. I play Yang Qin (Chinese hammered dulcimer) - Its hard to explain the music I make but i have some stuff out on BC as Earth Person if that helps inform your suggestions. I have 10 hp left in my case and was thinking of the antumbra cara (smaller marbles) does anyone have any suggestions on other modules which might suit the setup better?

I'm definitely going to buy a few modules at a time and then see what I'm missing or where I want to go.

And my bad. That 3:1 is definitely not a mult haha. I meant to put this instead https://afterlateraudio.com/product/mult/. The MI Links look great though. I guess it would be better than the ALA one since I could do mult a stereo in, and still have space free for more inputs. Perhaps I'll have one ALA mult, and one links. Does this seem like a good idea?

EDITED Aug 8th 2020, 20:53

Another question, any recommended cable brands to get or stay away from. I know this is a bit of personal preference but with so many to choose from, any go to sources great value/price ratio are welcome.

well good luck with that I don't have particularly large hands and I definitely prefer bigger modules with larger knobs and more space between the knobs and jacks - but each to their own

go slowly buy a few modules at a time - that way you can answer these questions yourself - it's your synth - if you can get similar functionality to links from other modules (and you prefer those other modules) then do so - personally I always find it useful to have a buffered mult etc etc

yeah the bored brains things will work, but you'll probably want a few, easily loose them, drop them on the floor and step on them, spill coffee on them etc...

EDITED Aug 8th 2020, 19:35

That’s the goal, I want to experiment and grow the second row after I am better able to decide what is missing coming from a more informed desire to fill a gap. All the guidance has been great and much appreciated. I don’t want to fall into analysis paralysis but looking for a solid foundation that forces creative use of limited mods.

If you are going to get a Mantis (great case btw, I have 1) then it really doesn't matter as you will have space left over anyway, ochd is a fine octal lfo, but in a small case with other modulation I think links is slightly more useful

to me really it comes down to this - buy a few modules - play with them - once you know them inside out, get another and repeat, within one or two modules you will work out which modules you need anyway

Thanks Jim. I thought about getting the full size ones, but smaller knobs don't really bother me too much as my hands aren't that big. Plus, I figured I could save a little money that way.

Good call on the kinks. Do I need the links if I have the 3:1 mixer? Or should I grab two 3:1 mixers? Couldn't I also use this https://www.perfectcircuit.com/boredbrain-splix-black.html as a not so pretty way of doing it as well? I didn't think about the matrix mixer though. That's a good suggestion.

Also, I forgot to mention I have a Mackie VLZ802 I'd be using as an outboard mixer to go to my interface.

I will likely get a mantis case so I have room to grow but want to limit my first rack to a single row. With that being said I could take out the mmf, lxd, and hpo as you suggested originally Jim and put the mixer back. The ochd looks really nice but if you think links is more versatile with maths I could go that route. So many options but a good exercise and I appreciate all the feedback.

More filters or mixer, links vs ochd decisions decisions

Got the modules from @RazzoRocket & @yrn1 a little while ago. Seamless transactions & quick to dispatch. Thanks!

EDITED Aug 8th 2020, 18:42

personally I would have fewer sound sources and get full size ones so that they are easier to play with

but more seriously, I would dump the ochd - pams and maths (plus pachinko) is enough modulation in this size case imo - instead use utility modules, such as mutable links and kinks and a matrix mixer to derive lots of related modulation

if you look around enough (2 mins on google) you'll find a pulse from make noise that you can just copy in an audio track and then place it on every beat and play that out at full volume on a spare audio channel - this works even if you don't have a dc coupled audio interface - I do and I still use this method

or you could use midi clock and a midi->cv module

Some thoughts from a relative noobie, but I'd probably swap the Links for an Ochd, I like a lot of potential modulation sources and Ochd's ratios are really nice even if you only use a few outs, this would let you use the Maths in some more interesting ways too. If I was going to pick a different filter I'd choose a Polaris, I like the sound a lot more than the new Ripples, it's more playable, and it has a lot more features. You'd have 2hp to fill there which is a lot less than 4 but might still give you some interesting options.

re ochd - I think 1 modulation source in a case this size is enough - kinks and links together with the matrix mixer provide enough useful utility modules to leverage Maths to suffice all the modulation requirements - ochd (or similar, maybe something with reset) would be a great early addition to the next rack, imo

I like the idea of swapping the filter for ripples or polaris!

On another note @JimHowell1970 I hope we see some video work from you one day, that rack looks incredible!
-- troux

https://www.instagram.com/jimhowell1970 - enjoy

the case is more logical than physical - it's not all in one case, chromagnon is on order and the bottom 2 rows are my wish list - as is the fortress and diver is in for repair

EDITED Aug 8th 2020, 17:28

Looking pretty sharp @mog00!

any help would be appreciated

Recently got modules from @yrn1 and @atomtwist.
Everything ok, flawless transactions and prompt shipments.

Hey all,

This is what my first setup is looking like so far. I'm trying to do generative ambient music. I still have 18 hp left, but I'm not sure what I want to do with it yet. How does this setup look so far? Thanks!

troux Orchd great choice!. All these recommendations have been great thank you.

Latest iteration

Some thoughts from a relative noobie, but I'd probably swap the Links for an Ochd, I like a lot of potential modulation sources and Ochd's ratios are really nice even if you only use a few outs, this would let you use the Maths in some more interesting ways too. If I was going to pick a different filter I'd choose a Polaris, I like the sound a lot more than the new Ripples, it's more playable, and it has a lot more features. You'd have 2hp to fill there which is a lot less than 4 but might still give you some interesting options.

On another note @JimHowell1970 I hope we see some video work from you one day, that rack looks incredible!

I think my poor little mixer is giving up the ghost. 10 years of service for a cheap, consumer grade slab isn't too bad, I suppose. :-)

Apparently still trying to debug this mixer right/left balance issue. Thought I had it pegged but in reality I think this poor little mixer is finally giving up the ghost after ten years. Anyhow...

Wrapped up the final touches on the EP-420 case migration early this morning, moving a few modules and cleaning up the internal wiring. Later this afternoon, I had a 30 minute window between meetings and managed to jam out this fun little patch that brings in one of my Moog Mother 32's. Hope you enjoy it.

In agreement with what has been said so far and just wanted to drop in a note about the Joranalogue Filter 8: It's complicated.

I know this filter has been getting a lot of praise and has been placed on several "Top 10 modules" lists. I have owned one for about six months. It's a very powerful filter that craves lots of modulation to get the most out of it. If you're just starting out, I'd suggest a filter or two of simpler design. With that 12hp of space, you could have something like the new Mutable Instruments Ripples v2 or a Doepfer A-124 Wasp (classic AND cheap) plus a Steady State Fate MMF pingable VCF or even a Make Noise LxD (low pass gate). This would open the door to lots of creative sound plus a friendly learning curve.

Joranalogue Filter 8, terrific module but big for this case and complicated for someone just getting into modular/eurorack.

Just my 2 cents. :-)

Thanks Jim! Being a noob picking modules is like staring into the sun, and I am only getting started.

revised kit

As always all comments, suggestions are welcome, I am super grateful for the help.

@wtkdwc recomended seller, fast shipping etc. everything as described so thanks again, Michaela !

I agree with pretty much everything Jim said. I think when starting out having a disting (mk4 or EX) would be really helpful. It lets you fill in any holes you have in your rack and experiment with a bunch of different things that you can do in eurorack. All of a low footprint and a single price.

Looks bang on, thank you!

I would remove the adsr, the dsp, the quad lfo and rosie

do you really need an adsr? generally these are pretty much set and forget so 2hp work really well - or if you need something more variable sellf patch maths - see illustrated manual - if you really need a 'complex' adsr - I'm sure you can find another one that is a nice even 6hp so that you can upgrade the pico dsp to the happy nerding fx aid

the pico dsp is based on the same chip as the fx aid - but the fx aid however is much more versatile - you can swap the programs and can do both stereo in stereo out and mono in stereo out

you have Maths as a modulation source - which imo is enough in this size case - see below on how to make it go further

in my opinion Rosie is pretty pointless and takes up a lot of space for what it is - either use the vca or the effect module as a final stage and listen in mono or the effect module as a final stage and listen in stereo - use a 2hp headphone module if you specifically need headphones - if you desperately want a crossfader you can patch it with maths - see illustrated manual

that would save you 30hp

with that I would put in -
6hp - an original plaits - much more ergonomically friendly
2hp - 2hp headphone module
4hp - fx aid - much more versatile than the pico dsp (and an even size!)
8hp - mutable links and kinks - incredibly useful beginner starter set - adds a buffered mult, 2 utility mixers*, a rectifier, basic logic and a sample and hold - these are all incredibly useful in terms of both audio and (particularly in a small case like this) cv - you can use a minimal amount of modulation - ie Maths - and extend it in many different ways - to produce a further 7 related modulation sources (helps if you get some stackcables for this!) just from kinks

and then either

10hp - AISynthesis matrix mixer - just because matrix mixers rock - AISynthesis seem like a great company - and it fits in 10hp!

or

2hp - 2hp adsr - if you really need an adsr
8hp - doepfer quad vca - because you can never have too many vcas

or

8hp - disting ex - incredibly useful in any sized case - especially for beginners to work out what modules actually do
2hp - 2hp adsr or even better vca

or

4hp - disting mk4 - really useful in any size case - especially for beginners to work out what modules actually do
6hp - leave blank until disting tells you what to put there

Firmware images can be found on our website.

We recommend to upgrade as soon as possible for best experience.

Install instructions:
1. Power on 2.4SINK Eurorack module in WiFi access point mode
2. Make sure no sensors are connected
(either wait 10 minutes until sensors go to sleep or take out batteries)
and no Ableton Link enabled device is in the same WiFi network
3. Access web app with a web browser (http://2-4sink.local/ or http://192.168.5.1/)
4. Click firmware upload button and select firmware binary 2.4SINK-vX.X.X.bin
5. Wait until upload progress has finished and module has rebooted automatically
6. OPTIONAL: Verify firmware version in web app below upload button

ATTENTION! ALL SETTINGS INCLUDING WIFI, BLUETOOTH AND MAPPINGS WILL BE DELETED AFTER FIRMWARE UPGRADE!

After successful upgrade, the module starts WiFi in access point mode with default settings (SSID: 2.4SINK, no password).

By default, all outputs of Bank B are configured for Ableton Link after upgrade
(clock for full/quarter beat clock and LFOs with different waveforms synced to single beat).

CHANGELOG

v1.1.0-beta2
Bug Fixes:
- Fixed firmware crash if many Bluetooth devices are in the near
- Fixed Bluetooth MIDI connection loss

v1.1.0-beta1
New Features:
- Ableton Link (including customizable clock divider and synced LFOs for each output)

Improvements:
General:
- Up to seven Movesense motion sensors can be used in Wi-Fi client mode now
- Higher randomness for stepped noise LFO

Performance:
- Improved performance of Movesense motion sensors
- Improved performance of web app
- Overall stability and performance improvements

Usability:
- Direction of acceleration axes match graphics on sensor
- Gate/Triggers based on acceleration are debounced to prevent unwanted triggers
- Yaw axis value increases when turning right (inversed direction)
- Removed netmask and gateway field in web app for WiFi access point settings
- Status LED is now flickering if motion sensors are connected (depending on number of sensors, the frequency increases)
- Status LED becomes brighter representing the upload progress during firmware upgrade (if firmware upgrade was successful, status LED blinks five times)

Bug Fixes:
- Fixed disconnect of Movesense motion sensors when changing CV settings via web app
- Fixed non reconnect of Movesense motion sensors when rebooting module
- Fixed disconnect and non reconnect when using more than four Movesense motion sensors
- Fixed wrong mode when changing and saving output mode gate via web app
- Fixed phase offset of some LFOs

v1.0.0
Initial firmware

This is my plan for an initial build around the Neutron. My budget is ~$3000 and my goal is something that allows for a lot of sound design for sampling while being immediately performable and at the same time having the possibility of, though not specializing in, generative stuff.

The Neutron was really good at sound design and generative all alone and I learned a lot using it (I even got pseudo-euclidean rhythms by putting the 2 oscs in lfo mode, turning on sync, and playing with the delay!). For now I just want to cover its missing aspects and expand it. The intellijel 7u cases are carry-on compatible and I will be traveling in the near future so that's why I'm choosing that case. I have already owned the neutron for about a year, and aside from traveling it will not be racked, giving me some room to grow. I always run out of attenuators, vcas, and envelopes while patching the neutron, so that's why those modules are there. Also a sequencer capable of transforming one instrument into a completely different one over the course of a performance, and that can also handle triplets, record cv, and do a bit of sampling is why I chose the nerdseq over the hermod and metron. Initially I was gonna give the nerdseq mutes with an addac latch module, but I learned a launchpad gives it that functionality as well as x0x and clip-firing style flexibility so I nixed that module, at least for now even though it would still be useful for other things like hocketting. It will connect to the disting ex via i2c (when that expander is soon released), which gives multi-velocity, note, and round robin autosampling and polyphonic sample playback, which is really awesome and will make a great seq/samp duo, as well as a looper and other utilities for experimentation. The disting midi breakout is there as a price/hp placeholder for the nerdseq i2c breakout module. The 2xMIXIV modules replace the ATN8 I think for the better. I found them because the atn8 is not available right now and I'm thinking of purchasing soon. The faders are probably a bit more usable than the trim pots on the ATN8, and it ends up consuming the same hp. I have lots of attenuator/mixer/vcas because setting up, for example, a reverb that ducks the attack of a lead patch takes 3 vcas alone. Assuming 3 voices and a sampled bass that I want auto-ducked, that's another 3 vcas plus 3 attenuators for separate duck levels of each of those 3 voices. That's 6 vcas. Etc. So lots of vcas. Also I have at least 5 stackable cables already.

I want the ability to make an actual 'track', as well as the ability to set up self playing patches. I've gotten some really cool stuff regarding the latter out of the Neutron alone, but when it comes to an actual track the amount of computer involved in sampling and performing really kills the workflow. I like the Seq24 line of sequencers but they are kind of unstable, and this build addresses those issues.

The (not)'full' build plan is here:

Eventually working towards tzfm and quad(oct)rature play (formants, morphing, more performability) from modules included here (ignore the hermod and bitbox. That functionality is replaced by the nerdseq and disting):

If I find out the new Nerdseq P will be given a CV input expander then I'll save the rackspace and go that route instead, but otherwise I'm eyeing a b-stock demo nerdseq for a purchase soon.

Thanks in advance for all advice!

EDITED Aug 7th 2020, 10:11

re @boombipbass ... I never had any transaction or interaction whatsoever with this member but just saw that I got thumbs down from him. WTF???!! I messaged him just a minute ago asking why the hell but now I see it's unlikely that I'll get any reply from him.

Update: days later he did reply and removed the thumbs down.

EDITED Nov 26th 2020, 13:45