Need feedback on my first Eurorack

I've wanted to build a modular synthesizer for years, but I think now's the time. I want to build something small and inexpensive (~$2000), but one that will keep me entertained and diving into new sounds while not updating it for a matter of months while at college. I have a general idea of how to go about it (I think), different sounds and artists I'd like to emulate, and modules I find really interesting, such as:
Mannequins - Just Friends
ALM - Akemie's Taiko, Akemie's Castle
Qu-Bit - Nebulae V2, Chance
Pittsburgh - Primary Oscillator
Malekko - Varigate 4+, 8+

I want to pair it to Earthquaker Devices's Avalanche Run because I love how that pedal sounds, but that's besides the point. Here are the modules I selected considering what I find interesting and what I think will keep me interested for a long time without updating it:
https://cdn.modulargrid.net/img/racks/modulargrid_892010.jpg

Feedback? I'm a noob and I want the maximum potential out of my small system, so please give me feedback.

Of course, I thought it over again... I’m heavily considering getting a Dreadbox Erebus v3 and then a couple Eurorack modules to accompany it. Would this is a better alternative, and if so, what modules should I get to work with the Erebus? Any feedback on my accessory rack here is welcome:
https://cdn.modulargrid.net/img/racks/modulargrid_893143.jpg

$2000 budget.

Behringer Neutron $300.
Tip Top Mantis 2x104HP case $355.
Micro Ornaments & Crime $250
Micro Temps Utile $250
Expert Sleepers Disting Mk4 $180

That will take you up to $1335. I'm assuming that you'll be using your laptop to do your sequencing and have an audio interface.

I'd save the other $665 for your next round of improvements (I'd start looking at effects like the Tip Top Z-DSP). The Neutron's LFO can be slaved to your MIDI clock. You can use it to sync the Temps and O&C. You can always use an external LFO from the Disting or O&C in place of the internal LFO on the Neutron.

DO NOT mount the Neutron in the case. HP space is expensive and you lose access to the line-level ins-outs on the back when you mount it.

Don't spend your budget all in one shot. No one gets it right the first go around and you won't know where you want to go until you get some knob wiggling time under your belt. It's college... experiment. :)

Awesome, thanks for the input. Anything else I should consider?

Your best friend is Youtube. Learn everything you can about a module before purchasing it. There are loads of tutorials, demos, and people simply showing off a patch/playing with all of the modules you are considering.

Do not buy anything used from individuals. How will you know if the module is damaged unless you have experience with it? The pricing on used modules is not considerably lower than new. That's just my opinion. Your mileage may vary.

You can get a lot of the Mutable clones from dealers now. Go that route or find a maker with lots of experience/referrals.

Find a dealer that you like and check out their policies on returns. Sometimes a module isn't what we were expecting. I generally buy from one dealer with a couple of alternates for hard to find stuff. Build the relationship and get to know them on a first name basis. Depending how deep down the Eurorack rabbit-hole you go, some sage advice or recommendations can save a lot of heartache.

Most modules follow the same rules as far as what orientation the ribbon cable is plugged in. Get it backwards and POOF... you now own an expensive paperweight. Some modules have built-in protection from plugging them in backwards. Most don't. When you're setting up your case, do it slowly, confirm everything and double and triple check everything before powering it up. If you're into sacrificing small animals on an altar to bring good fortune... better break out a chicken before flipping the power switch. It's not the first time you plug something in that you fry it, it's when you're comfortable and overconfident.

That's pretty much what I've got. Take everything slowly and make the most of what you have before expanding.

Great, thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it :)

Your best friend is Youtube.
-- Ronin1973

I second.

Do not buy anything used from individuals.
-- Ronin1973

In most cases a broken module wasn't the problem, my limited understanding was.
My first two rows of 84hp were all second hand and they were perfect to start out with. Stll use most of them.

If you are new, apart from a completely dead module, how would you know if a module wasn't working properly? With a new module, you at least have the chance to return and exchange it for a working one (if bought from a dealer). With a used module, if you discover it isn't working right after a week... two weeks... then what?

As I said, most used aren't significantly cheaper than new ones. So my advice for someone who is new to Eurorack is to not buy used modules until you feel comfortable IN Eurorack. I realized you quoted me verbatim. But you have to read it in the context of advice to someone who is NEW to Eurorack.

Hhm, seemingly we are coming from different experiences. How many used modules did you buy and how many were broken? I actually bought a new Doepfer module from a well known and respected dealer. A few days after when I unpacked it I found a popped capacitor and burn marks on the PCB. When I returned for a replacement they assumed I had destroyed it myself and denied me compensation. This happened to me 3 month into going modular. This may be a rare case, in my experience as rare as module seller intending to cheat you.