A Mimetic Digitalis sequencer would work well in this set-up. They are great for stepped CV modulation. It would work nicely with your Pam's.
I have stackables. But I don't know about buying more of them. The issue I have with them is that stacking them creates longer and longer levers inserted into your modules. It becomes easier and easier to accidentally bump those stacks with your hands. Depending on the module you could do some damage to the jack or circuit board below. I would use Y cables for anything that's directly inserted into a module or using an outboard passive splitter like those made by Intellijel.
I think one possibility not discussed is mixing.
Think of an oscillator with 4 simultaneous waveform outputs. Connect all four audio outputs into a VCA module that can mix like an Intellijel quad VCA. Then connect four modulation sources into the CV inputs... maybe a quad LFO like the Xaoc Batumi and set the Batumi to really slow rates. Of course you don't have to mix just one oscillator... or you could mix between effects or even mix CV sources instead of audio.
If you combine mixing with filter modulation, etc. the sky is the limit.
yes you can you'd just need to have all sequenced notes starting above the threshold on the comparator and gaps between all sequenced notes with voltages below the threshold - it's a workaround and may not be optimal - but it would work
-- JimHowell1970
Throw in an offset and I think you'd be fine with the comparator. Example: Befaco Dual Attenuverter.
I bought a 1010Music BitBox. It responds on up to 16 triggers, or I can avoid the mess using MIDI (some sequencers output MIDI as well as CV). There are four outputs so it's decent for separating my outs if I need that. I can add new samples to the SD card, and with a little bit of XML editing on NotePad++, I can quickly put together whatever I need and avoid doing things slowly on the front panel.
I have some other stuff capable of percussion like the BIA... but sample playback seems to offer the most bang for the buck. There are plenty of samplers and ROMplers out there. You don't have to go with BitBox. But I would just rather sink resources into other areas besides percussion.
Thoughts:
Remove the DFAM from the case (mentioned above). Rackspace is expensive AF. Your DFAM is taking up nearly 1/3rd.
Remove the blank panels from your virtual rack. It'll make it easier to figure out how much HP is left in this build for modules.
Passive mults are okay. But they really aren't worth devoting HP space to. They can easily be done in-line. Intellijel has little red passive mult boxes that are dirt cheap. Just keep a couple of those about.
I prefer grouping my "like" modules together: oscillators next to oscillators, envelope generators next to envelope generators, etc. It makes it easier to find things for me.
Things to explore:
I couldn't find a noise source in the rack. Noise (especially white and pink) are great for thickening up sounds, generating random voltages (with help), etc.
Sample and Hold. Look into this. They are often paired up with noise generators.
Quantizers.
Small sequencers. It seems that Yarns is your primary source for pitched CV and gates. A small format sequencer is nice for those times when you don't want to use an external device OR if you're looking for some looping modulation.
Dedicated mixer. I see the Dreadbox VCA/Mixer unit. A small dedicated mixer that can handle audio and DC (control voltage) would give you more flexibility. The Maths can be drafted to do this. But it's a bit of a waste for the Maths.
Small multi-function modules like Ornaments & Crime, Pam's New Workout, Disting EX, Temps Utile, etc. are always great for exploring new functionality and options.
Enjoy yourself.
Post a link to your rack rather than a picture. Modular Grid will reference a picture of your rack but then I can just click it and take a deeper look at your modules.
Here is your primary issue. Your case is too small. That's the beginning and the end of your problems. Everything else is just a bandage at this point. You're going to go around and around trying to make choices and compromises when one of the cheapest things that you can do is just get a bigger case. A Mantis (for example) has 208HP of space and is under $350.
Everyone tries to build their modular battleship in a bathtub and they run into this problem over and over and over again. Skiffs and small racks are NOT for beginner systems. It's a terrible place to try and save money and you f--- yourself over every.single.time.
Sell the old case. Buy a bigger one.
Well, let's tackle some of your list... there's a lot to cover and I don't think it's going to be a one-brief-post reply.
Let's talk about recording. Well, that's an entire thing. Any two-track recorder should work if you're just looking to record your stereo mix as-is. But if you're looking to track individual parts and mix later, it'll be a mash up of the number of parts versus the number of inputs you have in your recorder. If you have more parts than inputs, you might have to sync your modular gear with your recorder and make a few passes to get every isolated part.
Speaking of recorders, if recording to Ableton is out, then you could try the Akai MPC Live series with CV outputs. Maybe it's too close to a DAW for your liking. Else you can go with a straight multitrack recorder from Zoom, Tascam, Sound Devices. I have my eye on the Cymatic Audio uTrack24 recorder. The price seems fantastic (under $600US).
If you must synchronize, that's usually done via MIDI, so you'd need something like a Pam's New Workout and the MIDI break-out expander for it and a recorder that can sync.
Thanks for going more in depth.
As far as growth, the Doepfer A-111 has very limited growth potential. As far as a synth voice, it's pretty limited in features compared to stand alone modules or other semi-modular synths.
For example, there isn't a sync input into the VCO section. The FM modulation is hardwired to the LFO or ADSR. There are lots of other examples, but I want to keep this brief.
I would definitely replace the Doepfer with individual modules as soon as possible if you're wanting to learn more in depth.
As long as you're going to a bigger case and are aware of the missing feature-sets, there shouldn't be any worries.
thank you Ronin for your message. is very helpful. Yeah the Ornaments & Crime Micro It is incredible! definitely fit for me,
also Pamela's.
So, I would is to draw up again in a 2 x 104 hp cab (ie: a Mantis "footprint"), and then let a few of your thoughts or advices.
thank you very much :)))-- tsir
The Mantis is a good, low cost choice. But remember that it doesn't come with 1U rails. Steppy comes in a 3U (vertical) form but the Quadratt doesn't. But you can substitute a 3U Triplatt in its place. There are plenty of nice output and MIDI modules in 3U as well.
Also, if you really have to have some Intellijel 1U modules in a 3U system, there are adapter packages for that.
Questions and comments:
The Lapsus and the Quadratt do much of the same thing. Why do you have both in this small case?
The Intellijel VCAs do not have any kind of manual control (like a bias knob). I would start out with 2 to 4 VCAs with bias controls. I'd lose the Intellijel VCAs as well as the USB port and put in an Intellijel Noise Tools unit for some Sample & Hold, slew, and noise goodness.
Scales is nice. But if you're okay with not having real time controls, a Disting EX or a Ornaments & Crime Micro will give you quantizer functionality. Plus when not needed for quantizing they can do a lot of other useful stuff. In a small case, getting more out of each module is definitely a huge bonus. Look into both the Disting EX and O&C and see if they are right for you.
I would also get a small stereo mixing module. Budget around 6 to 8 HP for that. The Quadratt can be used as a mixer. But I think of that as secondary, as the attenuverting portion is much more useful, especially with modules that don't have built in attenuverters.
The BIGGEST ISSUE.
Steppy and Mimetic need external clocks to make them function. Where is this clock going to come from? Also, where will you get the reset signal to restart them both in sync? I would put something like a Pamela's New Workout in the case. It also has multiple functions that are very useful.
Final thoughts:
Small cases seem ideal for first cases. But they are not. Larger cases allow for growth and learning. They are much more forgiving WHEN you change your mind or your level of knowledge expands. Also, small cases tend to have depth restrictions. Not all modules fit in shallow cases like a Palette. Be sure to do your homework on EVERYTHING if you really insist on a palette case.
For the size of the build and its limitations, it's not a viable set-up. It will work. But you're overpaying for the functionality. For a build this small the Data is pretty useless.
You'd be better off buying something like a Behringer Neutron for $300. You'd get more out of it, spend less, and learn more.
Good job on your first post. The link the rack was done exactly as it should be.
First and foremost, what is the depth of your rack? If your power rails or anything else is bolted to the floor in some parts, you'll have to be aware of that too.
The Disting IV is a good choice. But the EX is like getting two IVs in one unit. It's worth it if you're going so small.
The Noise Engineering Mimetic Digitalis is a great micro-sequencer to pair with your Pam's. There will be times when you want to just jam without messing around with your external gear. It's a thought.
The buffered mult is a bit of a waste on a rack this small. It's only 2HP. But that might be the difference between getting a future module you want or settling for something less.
Getting a Dixie + isn't a bad idea at all. Oscillators also make great modulators. I believe the Dixie can also get down to LFO rates. So it'll serve double duty if you like.
If there's room, I'd add a micro Ornaments & Crime. I think a Pam's, a Disting EX, and an O&C make a great backbone for lots and lots of "Swiss Army Knife" functionality.
Trade in your palette for a 7U Intellijel performance case. Then get the Disting EX. Now that you have the core of your system worked out, you might see some joy in getting additional modules with a lot to offer... like the micro Ornaments & Crime, a logic module, sample and hold, oh... and of course Maths... :)
1010 Music's BitBox series can record in sync with clock. But as far as mangling, you might want to read the manual to see if there's enough real time control (via CV) for your liking.
I own a Morgasmatron. It's a bit expensive. But you get two multi-mode filters that can act independently or as one cohesive unit. So you'll get a lot out of it. It's my go-to, bread & butter filter. As you progress, you may add more filters with different characteristics. But those characteristics are nuances if you're just getting into Eurorack or synthesis. In other words, you'll probably need some time to appreciate the differences.
Looking at your choice of sequencer, you might run into some issues. Steppy is great. But it only handles triggers and gates. So you may either want to add a second sequencer like a Noise Engineering Mimetic Digitalis... or replace the Steppy with something else that does both (there are endless possibilities in this category).
If you like the way the Steppy works then the Mimetic is a good choice. But you might have to think really hard, watch some videos, and read some manuals to make sure you like the workflow.
Thanks for the feedback. I take a look into the shift register. Pico System III is the eurorack version, so no case, but it is a good idea. I think there are some small cases and affordable (4 Ms pod maybe) cases for it.
-- iron_at
When it comes to a second case, another idea is to use it for all of your real-time controllers, sequencers, mixers, mutes, etc. Anything you want to be very hands-on with is nice. Just be sure the case is deep enough to hold them. Some skiffs and palettes are rather shallow.
I think the Disting has some shift-register capabilities under the Shift Register program... F6 I believe.
If the PICO system came with its own case, put it back in and you buy yourself some extra room.
Well, how open are you to buying new modules? For many of the Mutable Instruments modules, smaller clones exist. The resale value of your MI modules should be above the new price of the clones.
Perhaps getting rid of the Veils and Quad VCA and going with a Befaco Hex Mix? That's two less VCAs but a space savings.
Do you need the Noise Engineering BIA? Think hard on that.
The Magneto is nice. But could you get away with a Jelly Wobbler?
If you had to pick one of your multi-effects to lose, which one would you remove?
The Akai MPC Live family running update 2.10 or later has probability incorporated. It also comes with 8 CV outputs should you want to incorporate modular gear into the mix. The MPC Live II is probably the best fit as it can be powered by its internal batteries. To me, that would make more sense than trying to create what you need out of modular gear.
Well, as long as the modules are plugged into power correctly, there shouldn't be an issue. Knowing about the red-stripe is day #1 knowledge. Getting your modules plugged in is very easy to do. It's also very easy to plug something in backwards if you're not paying attention and get over-confident.
It looks like your case is full. So after you've explored what you have and how it works, I would say the next evolution is to transplant your modules to a bigger, more useful case. The Tip Top Mantis seems to offer the most value for the money from what I'm seeing. You'll have lots of room for expansion.
As far as exploring new modules, multi-feature modules are great. The Swiss Army Knife type usually allow for exploration in functionality. The big three I can think of are Pamela's New Workout, Disting EX, and Ornaments & Crime. There are others that are nice to have as well. In my opinion, you'll probably keep these three modules as there always seems to be an application for them and for the price (less than $1000US) for all three, you'll get a LOT of use and learn a lot from them.
I've mentioned the big three in other posts. I hate sounding like a broken record. But the questions seem to be the same. :)
Adding an offset to your signal requires its own attenuverter to be put in the chain with -5v to+5v available unless you stack more attenuverters together for greater offset
-- jmettlew
Without a source plugged into an input, each attenuverter generates its on static CV voltage. You can add an offset by summing two adjacent inputs together, like A&B. Run your source signal into A and adjust to taste in either uni or bipolar. Then take your output from B. Adjust B in bipolar mode to add an offset. I suppose if you want greater than five volts then to tap at C. B and C should sum...
Maybe I'm not understanding your statement or question.
It's a good idea. You can also loop internally with modules like the 1010 Music BitBox. It can look in sync with your CV clock or MIDI (if your sequencer supports MIDI). It offers a 16 cell grid of sample playback, so it can handle loops AND one shots like drums.
The only issue would be wanting to change your tempo later. But a quick trip to and from Ableton Live will solve that. You can open up a 16 cell kit in Ableton Live, warp your samples to another tempo, then save and replace your samples at the new tempo.
Oh and if you're handy with editing XML, you can quickly assemble new kits from any sample collection you have and save them to BitBox's SD card.
Thanks for the in depth replies. I did get lured into the small cases. They’re so damn attractive until I try and jam everything in them. I’m aware of the VCA uses but didn’t realize that some modules have VCA’s but aren’t the same as freely patchable VCA’s. I think the Modemix was a mistake while I was shopping for a VCA. It appears to modulate the signal more than anything. I’m going to keep forging ahead and diversify my racking evolution.
Thanks gang!
-- Lowtide
If you go through the rest of this forum, you will see the #1 issue... by far... is people trying to build-out a tiny first case. They make things exponentially harder using a small case. As you learn modular and more importantly, what direction(s) you want to go in, you WILL add more modules and possibly even get rid of a few others. But more often than not, what you start with won't be enough. They don't call it Eurocrack for no reason.
Give yourself the opportunity to broaden your collection and freely add more modules. Empty space in a case is a GOOD thing. If you do decide to go with a small skiff set-up (for whatever reason), there are plenty of synth-heads looking to upgrade to a bigger case... because the case they originally bought... was WAY too small. :)
No. They have the same basic footprint. But the inputs and outputs are different.
Temps Utile has 6 inputs and 6 outputs. O&C has 8 inputs and 4 outputs. Those ins and outs are configured for different signals (gates, triggers, CV) as well.
Windows only likes to recognize one audio interface and one only. I've heard of there being a custom ASIO that allows for aggregate interfaces. But I've never used it or set it up.
Building your first build in a small case always leads to these kind of headaches. I'm not singling you out. But if you look at a lot of submissions, you'll see that people often fall into this trap on their first builds with a small palette or "skiff" type build. You're building a battleship in a bathtub.
-- Ronin1973
Its difficult to allocate $8000 to build something larger when you have no idea what you want or what you're doing. Hindsight is always 20/20 and this perspective is something that can only be gained by personal experience. The palette is designed to be accessible and lots of people employ them successfully.
-- drfear
A Mantis case is around $335. A Palette is $299 to $400. No one is saying to drop $8000 on equipment. What I'm saying is that you bought too small of a case for your first build. There's no flexibility in a space that small. But people keep wanting to buy super small cases and then paint themselves into a corner on the first build.
There's nothing wrong with your selections. There's nothing wrong with the amount you're spending. But you're going to have a hell-of-a-time getting a reasonable amount of features into such a small case, learn more about modular, then tweak your case to work better for you. You have no room for expansion.
My first consideration would be ergonomics. Where will the case physically live in relation to the Matriarch? You will be patching between the two quite a bit. So I would get that worked out. It also needs to be secure. That's a lot of money in delicate electronics hitting the floor if it falls. Have a plan.
I would start with a Pam's New Workout (8HP), Disting EX (8HP), and an Ornament & Crime micro (8HP). Between those three modules you should have an excellent playground of possibilities to add to the Matriarch. They are also offer a great sampling of features you may (or may not) want to add to your system as dedicated modules like quantizers, additional LFOs, sequencers, etc. Apart from the case, you're looking way under a $1000US for all three modules and only 24HP of room.
That's how I would start exploring as an adjunct to my main axe.
Building your first build in a small case always leads to these kind of headaches. I'm not singling you out. But if you look at a lot of submissions, you'll see that people often fall into this trap on their first builds with a small palette or "skiff" type build. You're building a battleship in a bathtub.
I saw your updated skiff. I don't think MG has updated the JPG yet... but it has changed since your original post.
I own Maths. I like Maths. But at 20HP, that's a lot of space for this skiff. Also, as Luiga mentioned, that buffered mult is a nice-to-have. But it really won't make a difference for the size of this skiff. For this size of a rack, every HP is important. So how are you justifying the Maths and the buffered mults?
I also noticed the Duatt. Good choice. If you get rid of the buffered mult, you'd have room to add back in your Mosiac ADSR.
As always, just suggestions.
What's driving pitch in your sequences? Steppy handles triggers but not pitch. Noise Engineering offers a 4 channel 16 step CV sequencer by the name of Mimetic Digitalis that plays nicely with Steppy, but you're out of room.
Also, consider adding a small DC-coupled mixer like a 2HP Mix (check to see if the depth is okay for your rack). Mixing CV signals together is important, like combining LFOs and ENVELOPES...
My OCP with Hemisphere arrived this weekend and I tried a bunch of applets and cannot find a way to do this. It has an internal clock option but I cannot find one to do the retrigger either and watched a bunch of synth tutorial videos on it. Still a great module and having a few is worth it even if you need to use another module to retrigger and reset the clocking. I use Pam or Batumi for the reset trigger option right now with my O&C modules.
-- sacguy71
I'm not sure about the Hemispheres firmware. But with the original firmware, you could generally scroll down into the menu and assign TR2 or TR4 to the reset function.
There are also rolling shortages for parts as well as long delays in delivery... it's not a good time to be a manufacturer, especially in boutique electronics.
I'm not excusing anyone or their business practices. Every case is different. But I do try and factor in issues with supply chains into delays.
I own a Temps Utile. If I had to do it over again, I'd get Pam's New Workout instead.
Noise, mixers (as xnax mentioned above), quantizer, attenuverters???
Both filters in your set-up are low-pass only. So you're pretty limited there.
Also, is this a dream build or do you already have all of these modules? Clouds isn't in production anymore. You can buy a new clone of Clouds or hope for someone willing to sell the original (not cheap).
tnx!
I discovered there is one to many passive mult on the top row and a Doepfer clock devider is missing.
The mults where there before i got the Klavis and the clock devider. Both do most of the multiplication.
Indeed the mults are an optimisation = more room = not making it easier :PThe Ornament & Crime is an interesting module. That's indeed something i wasn't looking for but it does add something new to the rack.
-- vnauta
Intellijel makes a mult called a "Hub". It's a little red box you can just toss in a drawer when not needed. It's 1:3 and the price is around $10. They are in stock at Perfect Circuit (just checked). They make more sense than chewing up HP. $20 for 4 extra HP of space isn't bad.
https://intellijel.com/shop/accessories/hub/
I'm hoping maybe the thread gets a pin put in it.
But something I don't see discussed often is ergonomics. What works best for you?
This is more oriented for permanent builds not portable ones.
I see systems that are vertically mounted and others that seem to be horizontal. What do YOU like best? What criteria do you look for in a permanent system? If you're going to spend hours working with your instrument, then this does come into play.
@Ronin, thanks for those suggestions. My first few checks showed "out of stock" but I can keep checking for availability elsewhere.
@TOMMI001 thanks for the news, maybe post again when the units are available? I am in the US, I'm not sure mail from your location in the Netherlands would make sense, but we'll see...
I am also considering ordering some perforated aluminum sheet such as https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum-perforated-sheet which is quoting about $5 per for 10 units of "custom cut" 1x5 inch panels, or $40-50 for me to get more than enough vented blanks as I would need, which is not bad. I've seen people in other forums say the cut tolerances are not exacting SO one might need to buy big and cut down. Do ya'll know what capacity metal sheers are needed to get clean edges / angles / dimensions on blank-sized metals? I don't have any such tools presently.
-- nickgreenberg
How would you mount the perforated aluminum to your rails? There's no guarantee that any of the holes will line up or be big enough to pass the threads of a screw through.
I wouldn't use sheers as they will probably curl your aluminum. Sheers (aircraft sheers are best) only make sense for rough cuts in my opinion. I'd use a small hacksaw. You can clean up your cuts using a deburring tool. Just do a search on Amazon for one.
A dedicated mixer module is where you should go. The quad VCA is great. But using it as a mixer AND a VCA at the same time is pretty limited. You can't adjust volume levels without opening the bias or sacrificing a VCA as an attenuator then plugged into another VCA to shape a volume envelope. I would think as the ability to mix as an EXTRA functionality and not a core. In my experience it's an either/or proposition.
I use a Quadratt 1U mixer/attenuverter for simple mixing duties. The Quadratt can be used for that, or individual attenuverting. But any small, monophonic mixer that's DC coupled will work if you don't have 1U rails in your system.
Keep the Quad VCA unless space is an issue. A 2HP Mix for $100 should do the trick... and it's 2HP. I don't like the knobs on 2HP stuff. But for this purpose, they are fine. It's generally a set-and-forget thing.
You may want to add a couple of linear VCAs... here's a dual set for $100.
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/arcus-audio-dual-lin-exp-vca
So for $200 and 4HP you have a small utility mixer and a couple of linear VCAs... (that do exponential as well).
Get rid of the two passive mults in the top row (+4HP). Passive mults as modules are a waste of space in a small build.
With your 16HP buy a Disting EX and an Ornament & Crime Micro.
It's two modules. But it's Christmas and your worth it. :)
The gated clock IS the output of the And gate. One and the same. So again this will cause a reset on each transition of the (gated) clock, and no division will occur.
-- jamos
I think Random is right and you're conflating the patch example with the normalled functionality. The webpage isn't laid out very well.
Buy some inexpensive aluminum blank panels. Drill some holes in them. Rough up whichever side you want to be face-down with course sandpaper, then superglue some wire mesh (like screendoor material) to the bottom. Leave enough space so you don't interfere with mounting the panels to rails.
Now you have the airflow you want and a barrier to stop any loose items (like screws) from falling into the drilled holes.
Also, these two premade panels aren't that expensive:
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/steady-state-fate-ssf-8hp-vented-blank
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/endorphin-es-42-blind-panel-cable-holder
I read the original post and I'm going to come at this from the angle that your current workflow isn't going to change but you just want more options. So I'd recommend adding three modules:
Noise Engineering Mimetic Digitalis
My thought is to add a Mimetic Digitalis from Noise Engineering. It's a four channel 16 step sequencer. You may or may not use it for pitch. But where it should shine for you might be four channels of stepped CV modulation of four different parameters in your set-up.
Intellijel Quad VCA
I'd also add a true VCA module (the Mix 3 doesn't have individual outputs). So something like an Intellijel Quad VCA would work. That way you can either attenuate the amount of CV coming from Mimetic OR use the Mimetic to modulate the amount of CV coming from another modulation source (like an envelope or LFO).
Blue Lantern CMOS Party (discontinued but still available on Amazon)
Finally a logic module. Any generic logic module should work that has at least OR and AND outputs. Being able to take two patterns of gates/triggers and derive a third pattern is always useful. There are other logic outputs that also might be interesting when comparing.
I think between these three modules you'd be able to add some dynamics to Plaits or Marbles timbres that would make for some good sample fodder.
... why on earth is reset normalled to the gated clock? This will force the dividers to reset on each clock, rendering the device useless. Shouldn't it be normalled to the gate input?
-- jamos
I looked at the webpage. I think you might be mistaken. According to the webpage, the reset is normalled to an AND gate. The AND gate has two independent inputs, an output, and THAT output is normalled to the reset-input.
Let me know if I've misread something from the manufacturer's page.
Don't overlook inexpensive VCOs that can work at LFO rates.
In the USA,
Detroit Modular has been my go-to place for most things.
Perfect Circuit is second. Their shipping can be a little slow.
After that, I just hunt around. For most modules, there aren't any big runs on product. So finding a lesser known brand of module usually leads me to whatever online store has a unit rather than me giving deferential priority to a specific vendor.
and suddenly I have a good use of my Frap Tools 321 :)
Thanks @BrumoD I was able to run the signal from my BSP through 321 and now get a nice smooth piano sound
-- jb61264
I think... the Disting can analyze the maximum voltage of a gate and derive velocity/layer switching from it. I believe that's on page 34 of the Disting EX manual. I think 5v is the maximum it's looking for. So yes, the amplitude (voltage) of your gate is relevant.
Any multi-lane sequencer should be able to pull this off. The Mimetic Digitalis was mentioned. It advances to the next step based on a trigger input.
Another option is to use a Sequencer that can change what step it's outputting based on an input CV voltage rather than a trigger. Ornament & Crime has a dual sequencer that can respond in this manner (Sequins mode).
I'd buy a Disting Mk4 or the EX plus the Beads. They are great in small cases. The Disting has a bit crusher mode built in. So Beads plus a Disting might be a decent alternative if you really want that feature. Plus you get an shizzle-ton of other features when you're not wanting to use a bit crusher.
I'd buy a line level to synth level (Eurorack) converter. Then I'd buy a traditional hardware synth. MIDI does polyphony VERY well. CV does not. A Keystep Pro or Eurorack sequencer with a separate MIDI OUT would be my go to.
Once you're done mucking around with polyphonic sounds within Eurorack, you've spent a ton of money for functionality that's usually pretty weak. So, in my opinion, why try to get X to replicate Y badly when you can just patch in something that does Y already?
