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Looks like a nice list of modules cherry-picked into a rack.
If you wanted to change the polarity of a CV signal... how would you do that with THIS rack?
If you wanted to scale a CV signal, mix two CV signals... again... how would you?
I don't see any traditional ADSRs. Why not?
The Batumi can always use the Poti expander. In a large set-up, it's very much worth the 3HP.
The only dedicated effect is a Chronoblob... if you're doing ambient, where is your reverb?
All in all, this looks like a fantasy build that has very little study behind it. Sorry to be so harsh. But if someone else putting together a rack sees this they should take these comments to heart.
The Rubicon 2 makes sense for a mature rig. For a skiff... I wouldn't think so as getting a nice palette of modulation sources out of skiff would be a bit difficult (sources, attenuation, attenuverting, etc.).
I've managed to get some sounds out of it that put it in league with some of the coarser sounding Noise Engineering stuff. ALSO... it has an LFO mode that can go pretty slow. So you can use it as a source for complex modulation of other oscillators/filters etc.
For me, the value is there due to its usefulness. But the cost rises proportionally. :)
Thank you! It works perfectly for me, let's see what others say. I understand that it's useful to be able to have 1U/3U/all option as a drop-down, but it got a bit frustrating to have to change that part back to full size every time.
I liked how 1U was hidden unless you turned on that radio button
1U manufacturers hated that function.
but now whenever I hit Reset I get to see all the 1U modules in there. Would it be possible that the Reset also retains/remembers the last Height selected?
It breaks the expected behaviour of what a reset does but in this case it seems like a good idea, so now it works like you suggested.
Currently it's not possible to add the power consumption of Series 500 modules like we do it with Eurorack systems.
That should be improved. The goal is, that it should be possible to calculate the power requirements of all modules that are added to an enclosing/rack so it would be easy to verify that a power supply is sufficient.
We missed to collect power data for Series 500 modules so that must be added at first.
I am not so deep into electronics so I need some help:
I have read in the 500 Module Series Spec that a bus connector delivers +16, -16 and +48V.
That matches with the API lunchbox that has three LEDs, labeled with +16, -16 and +48V.
I guess these basic assumptions are correct:
Every 500 Series compatible enclosing has a power supply that delivers +16V, -16V and +48V.
To calculate the power consumption of the system, all three values of all modules must be summed separately.
512C has a switch for 48v phantom power but the spec only says:
Power Consumption: ±12/18 Volts/DC, @40 ma.
That mismatches with the 16V spec.
1. How should user enter this data into the database?
2. Can those values be converted to 16V?
3. Do we need additional fields in the database?
I need a module that could change the incoming cv sequence. For example, i have the sequencer playing some notes, and i want to play with this sequence - change this notes to a different order, to the another speed or another speed between each note.
So maybe does such module exist?
And another one i need to generate bleeps and glitches from the incoming signal. From example, i have a patch of pad and i want some module to generate bleeps, glitches, some effects based on that incoming pad.
Can you guess any eurorack module for this purposes?
Hm, am I the only one that gets irritated that the default search function has All Sizes included? I liked how 1U was hidden unless you turned on that radio button but now whenever I hit Reset I get to see all the 1U modules in there. Would it be possible that the Reset also retains/remembers the last Height selected? It does remember the radio button statutes.
Nniikkoo/Niko, thanks a lot, I definitely will consider the E330, though I don't have a dealer where I can test it, but it's on my list :-)
Ronin, thanks a lot for your information. Yes I thought already it would be something like that but it's good you had confirmed that in details. So looks like I have to go for the Rubicon 2 then, instead of the Dixie 2+ :-) I will change in my wish list the priority of Dixie 2+ (lower the prio) and prefer in my list the Rubicon 2 (higher prio).
I got the Doepfer A-110-4, it's a more simple VCO but also has this "through zero" capabilities, fantastic what you can do with that, so since the Rubicon 2 got that capability as well, I am really thinking of that Rubicon 2 now (instead of Dixie 2+); it's just the budget ;-) But yes, you are right, it's worth it to go that extra mile (i.e. extend the budget) and go for the Rubicon 2 instead.
Thanks a lot and kind regards, Garfield.
For review reports of Eurorack modules, please refer to https://garfieldmodular.net/ for PDF formatted downloads
To be honest, I do think you need to get more experience with the Neutron. The more experience you get with it, you will start to feel what you might miss on the Neutron and that might translate into what you might want to consider to look at it in modular. If I may say it like this: "I don't think you are "ripe" (i.e. ready) yet for modular" ;-)
So build up more experience, while doing that you can check things like check your budget, what are you willing to spend on modular (do realise that it can costs several thousands and that's just for the beginning of it). Check the size of your planned modular case, choose a size that can hold for the future too, not that after a few months or something you need another case. So think in terms of at least 2x104 HP (Intellijel 7U case for example) or 3x84 HP cases (Doepfer A-100 for example) as a real minimum, better is to think bigger. Meanwhile still building up experience with the Neutron.
You also can check for yourself how happy are you with components of Neutron like:
Check component by component what's important for you? How should it work, what should it give you? You can check the basics with the Neutron, try to create an opinion for yourself with that for each component. Once you got that, you can answer easier your above questions by yourself. Don't get me wrong, it's not that I don't want to help you but the best learning curve is if you are going to figure that out for yourself. That requires experience and with that you can easier build an opinion for yourself what you want from each component and from modular in general.
This might sound dull but it really helps is to read the posts in the Racks part of the forum. Don't read the first few lines but read the entire posts to understand why people give certain advices. Start to read with the post that's called "Why your 6U x 84 generative rig won't work" post, that covers most of the starting issues, after that some other posts in the same section (Racks) of this forum.
Modular is not only about making music with it, it's in the beginning a hell of a job to start reading into it, learning about its components and its basic understandings, then the planning, investigations that are required for that planning. And then, and only then, perhaps then start think about buying a modular case. Not straight away fill it up fully, no keep it about half empty. Start with getting experience with the basic components, build up again more experience, adjust your opinion again on the gained experience and then check again what you might require. It's a long road to go (if you don't want to waste money like hell), but a very nice way to go if you are really into modular.
Oh by the way, and also be prepared to learn from mistakes, that's pretty common in modular too ;-) I mean to make mistakes, as long as you see that positively and take that as a lesson learnt, then that's fine.
I hope this helps a bit for starters and kind regards, Garfield Modular.
For review reports of Eurorack modules, please refer to https://garfieldmodular.net/ for PDF formatted downloads
OK...after checking the edit above and the PM, some suggestions...
First up, given your sight issues, I wouldn't lose the Elements. That's a very useful device, inasmuch as you have the modelling generator and the resonator (aka Rings) in one package here, and it's bigger and clearer to use than the 3rd party builds. The Contour should definitely stay as well...not only does it have the ability to work as four AD envelopes, you can loop these and use each section as an LFO with CV-controllable rise and fall. And the Penrose quantizer + dual S&H actually give you the rudiments of an analog shift register, so those need to be there. Basically, the module compliment (aside of the DATA) is fine...you just need to fill the hole with the right toys.
If you need the larger panel space (yeah...my near vision is totally shot, too) for VCAs, your best bet is probably Intellijel's Quad VCA. Basically the same thing as the Mutable Veils, $10 cheaper. Then you can use the Blinds as a quad CVable attenuverter, which should really help that OTA VCF sing as you can then feed it inverse envelopes and/or complex mixed modulation. As for a second filter, try something more exotic; the OTA VCF has your basics covered. Maybe Dave Rossum's Linnaeus would be a good fit there.
As for the next 104 hp you're thinking about, consider dedicating that largely to sequencing and timing. The quant setup there could make use of a good sequencer, which also means a decent clock and clock-mod setup. Definitely consider adding some logic gates at that point; logic + things like comparators, skippers, divide/multipliers, etc add lots of potential rhythmic complexity. As for which sequencer, that depends more on the sort of music you tend to create, as some sequencers do certain things better than others.
Did some checking, and the VRL cab's 5V line has 1A available. My concern was that the Nebulae v2 would draw too much for that, but Qu-bit's own data shows it as having a draw of 47 mA on +12, 7 mA on -12, and 271 mA on the 5V bus. If you can get your +12V bus draw down to 700 mA-ish, you should be in the right current ballpark. But again, check the manufacturer websites for the data here, since everything's getting close to those P/S limits.
The other thing I'd consider changing would be the mixer. A better choice would actually be the Happy Nerding 3x Stereo Mixer, I think...while it draws more than the JPSynth one and has one less stereo input, it's also 2 hp smaller and because it has an onboard TRS out that can be used for headphones, it eliminates the need for the HPO, and that opens up another 2 hp. The Nebulae should then fit into the space occupied by the Catalyst (move that to the other row), and this puts your free 4 hp in the other row for use by another module.
Thanks for your detailed reply. Unfortunately, it's not what I wanted to hear, so I demand a retraction. How dare you lecture me about some made up "rules" after I put my heart and soul into that theoretical rack?
No, seriously, thank you. Is there a downside to powering the Nebulae with 5V other than needing to keep a separate tally of the power usage? According the the ER-301's website, its peak current is 250 12V+ rather than the 300 listed on MG, which would bring the 12V+ total down to 772. I understand that the consumption listings in MG shouldn't be taken as gospel, but it seems I'm painfully close to being able to safely power this little rack with the supplied power. And I admit, just aesthetically, I'd rather not have two separate "on" switches, even if - especially if - one isn't being used.
But I'm prepared to hear what I don't want to hear.
First up, unless you have a Clouds onhand, you can delete that module as it's been discontinued for quite some time now. Not a bad thing, actually, as you could go with a 3rd-party build that'll be a lot smaller.
Mordax's DATA...hm...I sort of think it's more of a toy, eye-candy. Consider: how much do you need the o-scope and FFT analyzer functions? The other things it does, you either have already (Octocontroller, which handles all of the DATA's timing tricks and then some) or would do better getting in individual modules (the VCO capabilities). Remember: this is a very space-limited build, and the smaller you can make everything (within reason) the more functionality you can cram in. So that would also preclude losing the Elements and Blinds as well and also going with 3rd-party builds of those in order to save panel space.
VCAs? Yeah...this thing desperately needs them. Codex Modulex's version of the Mutable Veils would be a good pick. Right now, this doesn't have any proper VCAs at all, and that's a pretty serious problem as it leaves you incapable of controlling audio and/or CV/mod levels with your modulation sources.
As for the rest...get the initial build here reconfigured with smaller versions of the Mutable stuff, lose the Clouds and probably the DATA, then it'll be easier to see where to take things.
Is the data sheet summary available for pedal board and 500 series effects?
no, it's not available.
For reasons I cannot remember we did not collect the power data for 500 series modules.
We have power data for pedals, but the data sheet has to work different because of the different possible voltages and the fact that the pedalboards don't have the concept of rows.
Both issues can be addressed, though.
Thank you again for all the work, I plan to support site for a long time.
-- paramnesia
I would be grateful to get some advice on my rack. This rack is for real though, and not a plan. What should I get next. Utilities probably, but what to prioritize?
A slew limiter, another mixer, (like the Endoprhin.es Cockpit that I can get rather cheap), a mixer for CV, another filter and or a LPG, a "proper" VCA, mults, (yes definitely mults), a sequential switch? What do you think?
I got two Mother 32's and a Dreadbox Nyx + a Zoma Lyra 8 and pedals that I use with this rack.
Rule #1: never assume that the MG amperage figures are correct. ALWAYS overestimate your current needs.
Rule #2: Since there's a spike in current draws when you turn a device on, even if your operating current is 822 mA, that doesn't mean your inrush current is also 822 mA. And it only takes a fraction of a second for certain components in an overtaxed power supply to go "pop!".
Rule #3: When speccing power supply current figures, take your MG module amperage sum, then add 1/3rd as much more to that figure. Then add more besides that. You DO NOT want to push a power supply; instead, you want that power supply to loaf along like its not got much to do. This adds up as lower operating temps in the case, more stability across the system, and less component stress.
So, given the 1140 mA figure (I don't recommend using 5V unless necessary...keep things simple), you really need something with about 1.5A to get bulletproof operation. 1A with that = BOOM! or something similarly unpleasant along those lines. And if you do go the 5V route, you're still not 100% guaranteed that that'll work...1.25A for 822 mA is more sensible.
I'm looking to build my first rack, mainly for sample manipulation and integration with VCV Rack. The ER-301 would be the main sound source along with the Nebulae. The Catalyst looks fun for Octatrack-style crossfading between parameters. I have a Pyramid and Bitwig for sequencing and additional modulation, and a MIDI controller via the FH-2 for more knobs.
Any glaring omissions or missteps? More subtle problems? I know more VCAs is kind of a mantra, but I'm hoping that the ER-301, VCV Rack, and even Disting could fill that role - along with filters and everything else - while I'm getting my feet wet.
My main concern is power: I have the Pittsburgh Lifeforms Research Console, which has 1 Amp +12V, -12V, and +5V. The MG planner shows a power consumption of 1140 mA +12V / 183 mA -12V, but the Nebulae can run on 5V, which brings it down to 822 mA +12V / 176 mA -12V. Am I calculating that correctly and being conservative enough?
I'm not entirely sure I know what I'm doing, but am reading up, trying the put together something modest with lots of learning potential, and hoping not to electrocute myself. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The Dixie II+ is a basic VCO. It really doesn't do much more than any other basic oscillator. It has a sub oscillator, which is a nice feature if you make a lot of bass sounds or a sub factors into the sound of your patch (not always bass).
The Rubicon 2 is more of a complex oscillator due to its "through zero" capabilities among other features. You'll also see that reflected in the price. You can substitute the Rubicon for a Dixie... but not the other way around if you start diving deep into features.
I have the Rubicon 2 and I'm considering the Dixie as an additional VCO... I have a Z3000 but prefer the workflow of the Intellijel stuff.
Admittedly I'm impressed you are all so willing to put the effort. I won't get into the nitty gritty of the matter, but I do feel impressed about how strongly some people feel about helping newcomers to the format of modular.
-- ParanormalPatroler
There's a lot that can go wrong with modular. Not the hardware, mind you, but the user. It is ridiculously easy to get all bug-eyed when viewing MG and then conceive of a Deadmau5-level wall of blinkenlichts und tvistenknobs that appears like it might be a badass synth rig...until you blow $20k on it and realize that what you've created is an unworkable mess.
And a lot of us just don't like seeing that happen. Modular synthesizers have loads of possibilities as long as they're not thwarted by bad planning. But given that there's not really any decent books on modular synth architecture, and the Internet has a lot of really crappy info foisted off by people who know how to make a good presentation but who ultimately don't know jack-shit about the subject, about 80-90% of the info I at least run across (other than that by manufacturers and/or most retailers) is utter rubbish. And that doesn't help at all...in fact, it more or less UNhelps, leading to systems sitting in closets and so forth when they should be out making wonderful noises.
Ultimately, I think those of us trying to put this effort forward are simply wanting people to make music, and to make it with instruments that work and that are a joy to play.
This rig won't work. Period. You only have a VC8 as a mixer, which it can do but which isn't necessarily its best suit. Plus, the VC8 contains linear VCAs...not the best for audio, especially in the output mix stage, and you've got it way overtaxed with all of the signal sources in this. I see NO intermediate/submixers, NO attenuverters, NO adders, NO logic, NO buffered mults...there's "sexy module syndrome" all over the place here. If you've already bought all of this, congrats...you've built a Money Pit! I hope you haven't, though, because this is one hellaciously expensive fail if you did.
Utility modules are NOT an option. They're a necessity. Without them, you'll have a costly box of modules that really won't work well...or at all, tbh. Spend some time with VCV Rack, or checking out experienced builders' rigs here on MG, or studying "classic" modular systems from the past to see why they're "classics". You'll wind up saving a lot of time and, potentially, a lot of money that way.
Hi, thank you for the hard work into such a great site!
I am now using the site to organize my pedal board and 500 series effects, and I do not see the datasheet summary option like for Eurorack.
Is the data sheet summary available for pedal board and 500 series effects?
This feature would help with power capacity planning for new racks. Right now I am making a spreadsheet version separately to capture this information.
Thank you again for all the work, I plan to support site for a long time.
when I click on the link I get a different rack!!!
noob mistakes abound
these small cases are very expensive for each HP - get something 6u/104hp - a mantis for example (really good value) and space to grow into - without this you will just buy another case within a couple of months - or at least want to!!
and then go slowly - minimum viable synth - a sound source, a sound modifier, a modulation source (missing) and something to play it with and something to enable you to listen to it - add a disting mk4 - just so you can learn what different modules can do - if you constantly use the same algo, then buy that module and use disting for something else
and buy a quad cascading vca (veils or intellijel, for example) you will not regret it ever
after that only buy a module once you have learnt each module well and the rack as a whole well
BUT my advice is if you think that this is what you want from modular - get a mom32 or crave or something similar instead
"some of the best base-level info to remember can be found in Jim's sigfile" @Lugia
Utility modules are the dull polish that makes the shiny modules actually shine!!!
by that I mean there's not enough utilities for half the modules there, let alone for the 23 modules that are there - matrix mixers/sequential switches/vcas/unity mixers/mults/lpgs/attenuators/attenuverters etc etc etc
they'll be much more useful in terms of getting the rack to gel as an instrument than adding an extra sequencer - and way cheaper too!
maybe show us what you've actually got...
"some of the best base-level info to remember can be found in Jim's sigfile" @Lugia
Utility modules are the dull polish that makes the shiny modules actually shine!!!
Hi, so i recently bought a Behringer Neutron and now i’m looking into what to buy next.
My goal is to eventually create a dawless setup for (mostly) techno music. Something like the music of Momec: https://www.instagram.com/momecmusic/.
So my question is: what could/should be my next steps? What synths/modules can/should i definitely buy to eventually achieve my goal. I’m not necessarily looking for names of modules, but rather for what kind of modules, so i can do some research and look for the ones that fit me the most. Thanks
Admittedly I'm impressed you are all so willing to put the effort. I won't get into the nitty gritty of the matter, but I do feel impressed about how strongly some people feel about helping newcomers to the format of modular. I guess cleaning up MG isn't that dissimilar - so we're all a bit weird after all :)
I'd be happy to do some proofreading (it's part of my profession) if you need it.
I purchased a Noise Engineering Basimilus Iteritas Alter from @uebl.
I received a module in mint state, packaged to travel the world and it was shipped super fast.
As icing on the cake, communication was great and he was really helpful, making sure I was set for success with my new module.
+1 for Synthesis Technology E330.. tried to make some kickdrum sound with it, after watching (Must watch on youtube : Tobi Neumann “how to make analog kick drum”).. and damnn!!, it can sculpt so many punchy sounds that make my beloved BIA sounds like cheap toy in comparison..
Hmm... interesting... I had already a look at the Intellijel's Dixie II+ and I heard about the Rubicon II but haven't really check it out yet, I guess its price was stopping me from doing so :-) Do I see this correctly that the Dixie II+ is actually a small version of the Rubicon II or are there some significant differences between them that I should be aware off?
Thank you very much for pointing out that one and I will check at my dealer if they have the Rubicon II for testing it, best would be if they got the Dixie II+ for testing too, so I can compare them.
Kind regards, Garfield.
For review reports of Eurorack modules, please refer to https://garfieldmodular.net/ for PDF formatted downloads
If LED sliders make you happy then consider the Triple AD module from Hikari Instruments. I got that module and indeed it makes me really happy to use it. The module consists of 3 AD envelopes and is quite flexible in usage.
Kind regards, Garfield Modular.
For review reports of Eurorack modules, please refer to https://garfieldmodular.net/ for PDF formatted downloads
yep, each 'String' on a guitar (for instance) keeps resonating after being plucked, so one String can be played at a time but the decay of that string rings on into the others.
The 2hp Bell works in a similar way but has 6 voice polyphony, though each bell-strike can have quite a bit of a different resonance to the last, kinda de-tuned.
Enjoy your spare HP, don't rush to fill every last space, this is not like filling sticker books. Resist the urge to 'complete' your rack, its never complete so just relax.
I've not read the manual nor do I own it, but I suspect it works similarly to rings - pluck and/or change note quickly and the last 4 notes will overlap - giving you 4 notes playing at once - 4 note-polyphony
"some of the best base-level info to remember can be found in Jim's sigfile" @Lugia
Utility modules are the dull polish that makes the shiny modules actually shine!!!
I have read the manual, searched forums, seen Divkids video but I still don’t understand how the Four voice polyphony in 2 hp Pluck works.
Very glad if someone could explain.
@damir501 / Erica Synths Dual FX
= He had to send it twice because of the fact i forgot a number in the postal code.
= Thank you twice
= Thumbs down for PostNL : they had the correct city and street-adress, my phone and e-mail and they didn't even bother to contact me. Just returned it to sender.
Please give me some suggestions to my rack. Which modules are obsolete and should be exchanged ?
I like to go deeper in the generative direction. I have a Behringer Crave on preorder,
that would expand my possibilities in the near future. Beside that i have an SQ1, a Volca Beats for drums and
a Zoom MS-70. A Takaab Dual LPG is on the way.
I'm late. But I have an Intellijel Rubicon II. You can get into some seriously gnarly tones with some creative patching including self-patching. There are a lot of built in attenuators and attenuverters.
It's not cheap. But it's a great first choice for an analog VCO.
